Thread: Squaring my #@$&) table saw [emoji1787]

Are you measuring on the same point on the blade ie. rotating the blade as you move the dial indicator from front to back?

Not familiar with the actual saw you have, but they have two general structures for mounting the blade arbour. What matters is how the trunions (blade support pivot mechanisms) mount to the saw.

#1. The trunions mount to the underneath of the top, bolted through the trunion caps into the underside of the top. If the upper trunion caps were cast into the table, then it's a machining issue and probably can't be resolved. If the trunnion caps are separate from the table, you can enlarge the clearance holes in them by about 1mm and that should give you enough wriggle room to bring the slots parallel to the blade, without weakening the saw. Have you checked that the two slots are parallel, occasionally they aren't?

#2. The top and the trunion caps mount to the saw frame separately. In this case you can similarly open the holes in the frame a similar amount to achieve the wriggle room you need, assuming a sheet metal frame. For a frame where the thread or the bolts is in the frame, you probably need to open the holes in the top. Whatever, do not open the holes that the bolts thread into.

Hope this helps.

Ha ha, you're not the only one! Have a look at post #2 in this thread - Advice - Toolmac table saw for a newbie - for links to other threads on your saw (I guess it's got the motor hanging out the back?). There's quite a knowledge base on these saws on the forum so if the above info. doesn't help to resolve your problem get back to us.

Most importantly your first step should be to set the trunnion fastening bolts at the front of the saw to the centre of their slots in the trunnion cap. This will allow you the necessary movement in both directions at the rear trunnion mount to get the blade parallel to the mitre slots.

@malb I've attached a photo of how the trunnions / Arbor mounts. Not sure how you would modify that.

Cast iron top mounts through holes in the sheet metal with bolts as pictured.

I think I should be able to expand the sheet metal holes for the further adjustment. My confirm was that there was a lip on the cast iron table but as you can see it's all flat where it matters.

Originally Posted by aldav

Ha ha, you're not the only one! Have a look at post #2 in this thread - Advice - Toolmac table saw for a newbie - for links to other threads on your saw (I guess it's got the motor hanging out the back?). There's quite a knowledge base on these saws on the forum so if the above info. doesn't help to resolve your problem get back to us.

Most importantly your first step should be to set the trunnion fastening bolts at the front of the saw to the centre of their slots in the trunnion cap. This will allow you the necessary movement in both directions at the rear trunnion mount to get the blade parallel to the mitre slots.

Have a look at the photos I just posted. This table saw has been weirding me out since I got it. It's like a cabinet saw in the body of a contractor saw. This weird hybrid of the two. Hare and Forbes don't even have the manual on file anymore. It's a 1997 model.

It's keeping me in good humour that's for sure!

Hi,

First thing I would do, given the saw's age and sheet metal frame would be to measure and compare the diagonals of the top of the frame to check that it hasn't be knocked out of square at some, could be done if it was used as a site saw and moved around a lot for 20 years. If out of square, it limits the amount of adjustment available in the holes for the top stud mounting. If out of square, gentle nudging with a clamp across the longest diagonal should correct it and give you enough movement to line the top and blade up.

Failing that, open the holes in the frame or the studs in the top a little with a Dremel and burr or a file to give more movement in the direction you need to move the table for alignment.

I would characterise that as a cabinet saw, the fact that it's not a closed cabinet makes no difference. As I understand it contractor saws are those that have the trunnions bolted to the table top with the motor hanging out the back; hybrids have the trunnions bolted to the table top, but the motor is enclosed in the cabinet; cabinet saws have the trunnions bolted to the cabinet and the table is then bolted to the cabinet.

I have no expertise with cabinet saws so at this stage I'll butt out.

Appreciate the expertise from you all, thank you. Guess I'm making another big green shed trip to get the Dremel parts.

If there is one upside to all of this it's made me much more comfortable with my table saw and given me a greater understanding of what I can do to it. Thanks again everyone.

Thank you for your help everyone!!! My table saw top is now aligned in the realm of 0.05mm thank you so much. Oh my goodness I'm so happy, this has taken days [emoji1787]

Usually there are washers under the heads of the bolts holding the trunnions in place. Without going into warping, burrs etc. Try this, it is only a few dollars in cost.

Replace the washers with hardened ones. At your local Mom and Pop hardware store or even Bunnies, there are washers intended to be used with garage door hardware. Buy ones that will fit your trunnion bolts. Use those and it will probably solve 99.99% of your problem.