Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 23 of 23
  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,410

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    I see. How would you tackle this? Would you try and just do the dark bit or bleach the entire board?
    Id be trying to just bleach the dark line . I would have two small containers , one peroxide and one the alkaline . And more containers to first try diluted down mixes. Just test a spot the size of a pea. And see what happens . Use a heat gun to dry it off fast.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    melb
    Posts
    1,125

    Default

    Is this ammonia suitable?
    Buy Supreme Ammonia Cloudy 1L | Coles

    and this peroxide?
    Growth Technology OXYPLUS - A-Grade Hydroponics

    Can you please go through it with me? So Ill have a cup of ammonia and a cup of peroxide both at 100% strength. Then have 2 cups of water where I can slowly add ammonia and peroxide into each to slowly increase concentration. Do I just use a small brush to apply it? I apply ammonia to the stain and then apply the peroxide over that ammonia wet patch? Then use a heat gun to dry it so it doesnt over do it?

  4. #18
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,410

    Default

    I posted info on it a few weeks back. Read this thread and see if it helps.

    Bleaching white beech timber

    I'm not sure of how strong that peroxide is you linked . The stuff I use is 50%. That says 50 g/L so it may be good ?
    It'll burn if it gets on you. Wear goggles and gloves.
    Don't contaminate your original bottles of A or B in any way by mixing near or pouring stuff back into them. Just pour out a half a small cap full of each into a small container seal the bottles back up and take it to the job. Just try a small full strength mix on the wood first and see if it works or needs diluting . If it needs diluting add water to the peroxide.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,410

    Default

    BTW I don't think it looks like a sticker stain. When you see sticker stains you normally see them every 300 to 500 mm apart right down the boards not just one . They are normally 30 to 40 mm wide right across . Not to say you couldn't get just one but your one is sort of tapered and ends what looks half way across. If its the type of stain Ive seen before which is possibly fungal or rot of some type bleaching probably wont touch it.

  6. #20
    Mobyturns's Avatar
    Mobyturns is offline In An Instant Your Life Can Change Forever
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    "Brownsville" Nth QLD
    Age
    66
    Posts
    4,435

    Default

    My interpretation of a stain of those proportions is that when very green the board was possible stickered with or had an object stacked/stored upon it that had a steel angle or similar on edge (loading ramp, toolbox etc). If it's caused by the 'ebonizing' process, I doubt that you will have any success in minimizing its appearance.

    Imho it's not from a natural process - far to linear for that.
    Mobyturns

    In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,559

    Default

    Steel strapping may have been used to bind the pack after milling. If this piece was on the outer of the pack and part of the strap was subject to weather the result would be a stain similar to the pics.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    melb
    Posts
    1,125

    Default

    If it was steel would oxalic acid reduce it? Cause when I tried it was like i was just scrubbing water on it. Thanks for everyone's help. Im probably not going to bother trying to stain this bleach but its a great learning exercise and its a new thing I can try in the future. This thread is great for future reference

    Anyone ever try bleaching these black dots from pinhole borer? Is this the same bug that causes ambrosia maple pattern? Its a fungal thing that occurs after the borer yeah?


    20230510_093456.jpg

    Heres a cross section of one, I thought it looked cool. To me it looks so weird and alien that the black streaks occur perpendicular to the grain, you'd think its easier for whatever it is to grow the path of least resistance, which would be along the grain

    20230510_093517.jpg

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,559

    Default

    Oxalic acid is the go to for ferris stains in timber. Works better on dark rather than light timber. Sprinkle dry acid powder on stain, scrub with a toothbrush or small scrubbing brush dampened in water until a paste is formed, leave to dry usually about half hour, dust off and wipe down with warm water to remove any remaining acid. Worth a try.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Tree removed
    By Lappa in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 27th April 2021, 11:25 PM
  2. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 13th March 2017, 02:32 PM
  3. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12th July 2013, 08:26 PM
  4. Replies: 8
    Last Post: 26th October 2012, 01:53 PM
  5. Trees to be removed
    By Pulpo in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLING
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 28th April 2009, 02:31 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •