Thread: How would you make this staircase

I'd be making the carcasses in 18mm white MDF (the shelves can just be chipboard) with 35mm solid timber uprights (which run the full width of the stairs) and treads, screw everything together from the inside and call it a day. Use large dowels (70x10 or 70x12mm) in each join when laminating the treads for extra strength and similar dowels where each tread butts in to the timber uprights (they don't have to be glued in, but they should be a snug fit).

The large square carcass in the middle does concern me a little; I'd either make it 2 separate boxes with another vertical timber divider or find a way to significantly re-enforce the large timber tread on top of it, maybe 3 lengths of 50x50x4mm square steel tube with a powdercoat finish screwed underneath.

DISCLAIMER: I'm not a builder or an engineer. I strongly recommend you run your final plan past someone who is to make sure that it will be safe.

I saw a similar construction on, I think, a Kevin McCloud show "Grand Designs". I remember though that they used plywood for the construction and I don't recall any internal framework. The construction was fairly regular and I can't recall a large centre section like the one in your photo.

I agree with the others on the large section - it just doesn't look robust enough. For the others I would probably make the tread a bit thicker as well - only every second step is supported down to the floor. Then there is the handrail or lack thereof. I would have something there and it would be based on supports that go to floor level in line with the internal supports.

As for the piano, just install one of these at the bottom and you'll be OK:


Piano ban sign.JPG
No need to thank me - I'm here to help

Personally, I would over engineer it just to be on the safe side.

What ever you build it has to meet the Australian standards for max & min riser height and tread width as well as head clearance of the floor above as you ascend.

The 3 critical pieces of information required before designing anything is:
1 Vertical distance floor to floor
2 The going or horizontal distance from the last riser on the upper floor to the opposite end of the stair opening in the upper floor and also the horizontal distance from the last riser on the upper floor to any wall on the lower floor opposite.

Sounds confusing, probably is. Send me your email address and I will send a PDF explaining and you can email me the info or if you have a floor plan, email me that and I will design it for you

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Yep, I'm familiar with the BCA regs. We can fit goings of 240mm and risings of 180-190mm in our space. Balustrade - possibly glass depending on cost, and of course hand rails.

We would probably have a maximum box width of 2 goings - so 480mm. Maybe one that is only a single going wide - just for variety.

This is for our holiday home. I like the idea that I could build ithem as boxes at home on the good equipment and take them up one by one to install. Modularity is good.

The treads dont have to be solid wood - as I am thinking of covering them in laminate flooring to match the room its in. Neat little nosings systems in laminate are available to match the flooring. I also need to think about sand carried into the house.

Because this is a holiday home we are a bit cost-constrained - but we will need a bit of wow factor in this area. We have come across a lot of other stairway ideas we like but costs are unrealistic.

Thick plywood sounds like the way to go. Both for the cabinets and for the treads.

I guess what I would like is some way to put safety/robustness completely and utterly beyond doubt - so I'm not relying on plywood joins. Something like a couple of steel stringers buried in there somehow, although I cant see how to do that without spoiling the look.

Cheers
And thanks for help so far
Arron

If the units are made from 16mm mdf they would effectively be 32mm thick when butted together. Treads from 25 or 32mm thick mdf and she aint going nowhere.

Originally Posted by Arron

Thick plywood sounds like the way to go. Both for the cabinets and for the treads.

I think 3/4in ply would be plenty strong if each of those cupboards is it's own box. Keep in mind that wood is very strong for compression, provided you brace it correctly to account for any horizontal forces there shouldn't be any issues with your piano scenario. I believe regulations in most states will require you to add a hand rail also.

Good Luck.

OK, so after listening to the advice, I'm heading towards making each a unit as a separate box out of 16-19mm ply.

There would probably need to be some type of face frame - probably solid timber.

The treads I'm thinking 28-35mm mdf. There is a slight overhang for the treads (I think its called the nosing).

Treads would be covered in laminate flooring (cos its quick and cheap) with the dedicated nosing profiles.

The doors would be something like Brimsboard (if you can still get it) ie mdf with veneered faces.

My question now is how would you join the plywood together for the carcases? I haven't done much with thick ply.

cheers
Arron

The boxes can just be screwed together. Pin the pieces together with a nail gun, drill countersunk pilot holes and drive the screws in. I'd go a 35mm deep pilot hole with a 50mm screw.

I would like to see stringers of some sort owner that distance. Then design the cabinets to work in with that. I'll show the guys at work tomorrow.
Glass is not cheap. You will need posts or stand offs? To support the glass.
Wow that's a Big job.
we make stairs to be carpeted over out of mdf 25mm for treads and 16mm for risers. All wedged and glue blocked.
depending on stringers, housed get the wedges, or cut stronger which would work for the photo you have.

Stayed in an award winning design home in Seattle just recently which had a similar staircase.

It was made from MDF. Just looked like Boxes made and butted together. I remember thinking what a great use of space for storage.

Sorry, can't remember the thickness of the MDF.

Yes, I'm convinced now the strength is there if using mdf or ply. As someone pointed out both are immensely strong in compression. The only forces to worry about are directly downwards as the design presents racking. Perhaps the last carcase could have a fixed front rather then a door, to further prevent racking.

I also toyed with the idea of imbedding stringers - largely just for the peace of mind thing. Easy enough to do at the back where it would be out of sight, but not possible at the front without compromising the look. Anyway, I think they are unnecessary and would not add to the strength, possibly detract from it as you would be compromising the box shapes.

Glass is looking too costly. Shame, as a balustrade will spoil the look.

I wouldn't be having the little flip up lids either - just no need for it.

cheers
Arron