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Thread: steam bending

  1. #1
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    Default steam bending

    G'day all , ok my weekend has been all about steam bending so my question is which timbers are best suited for steam bending so far I've found tassie oak and redgum to be ok I'm sure there is certain timber that is ideal for steaming so if you have some good input I'd love to hear it .
    cheers Osage.

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  3. #2
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    Osage,

    Thanks for the info re the bending qualities of Red Gum. I picked up some Red Gum slabs from Mapleman a few months ago and was wondering if some of that timber might be able to be used in a steam bending based project that I have in mind for later this year. Guess I'll have to give it a try.

    It'll be good to hear what other Australian Timbers people have found to be good for steam bending.

    Thanks,

    Roy
    Manufacturer of the Finest Quality Off-Cuts.

  4. #3
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    Seen some success with steam bending spotted gum, large sections on fairly tight radius for car wheels. It needs a compression strap around it to prevent tension splitting.
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  5. #4
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    Hi Osage,
    As Alex said, spotted gum is a traditional favourite Australian timber for steam bending and works brilliantly especially when green. If that doesn't suit the project you have in mind then, as per ....

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/184893...-101-a/page-5/

    ...I have had great success with huon pine if you are looking for something more 'refined'?
    As part of my steam bending journey, I googled (I think) steam bending Australian timber and got some fabulous data especially from the Queensland State Government (Department of Forestry?).

    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  6. #5
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    (flindersia xanthoxyla) yellowwood is the best Autralian timber you will find for bending either boiled or steamed. Before you bend any timber take a slight arris of all for edged as it will improve your success rate greatly.

  7. #6
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    I'd heard that timber for steam bending, whatever the species, needs to be air-dried (and not too dry at that). Kiln-dried is a no-no?

    As Alex says, a compression strap is very advisable to avoid disappointment. Reminds me of the course I did at Sturt years ago under a well-known Australian furniture maker, who tried to demonstrate steam bending without this.....in fact, he'd never heard of compression straps (and there were some sitting on the floor unused from a past Michael Fortune course). Result? Heaps of wasted time and wasted timber. Put me off steam bending for life, so I'll take bent lamination any day......

  8. #7
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    Default

    We appear to have parallel threads happening here...

    Steam bending Oz timbers

  9. #8
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    I've done steam bending using American White Oak, says he with a total lack of enthusiasm.

    Yes it works rather well however and a huge HOWEVER. . . .

    I steam bent 3 pieces, ¼" thick for the crown rail and bottom rail of chair backs. Then I glued the bent oak into ¾" thick pieces. I used the same forms for both the steam bending and glue ups.

    The results were great as far as the steam bending and glue up went. The problem became when I had to cut the tenons on the ends of the bent rails. The tenons needed to be square to a plane that no longer existed. I had to make jigs that replicated the missing plane and cut the tenons. Yes it worked but it wasn't worth the effort. Next time I'll just buy the appropriate thickness plank and use the band saw / sander to shape the project.

  10. #9
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    Default A Few Tips

    Hi Osage

    I am far from an expert steamer, but a few experiences or tips may help.
    • Some timbers bend better than others - Bootles will help.
    • Bending timber should be straight grained and fault free. Any knots, interlocked grain, grain runout, or other faults may cause it to snap or bend unevenly.
    • Quarter sawn bends better than back sawn.
    • Timber should be partly dried (say moisture 20% or so). Bent green timber will continue to move as it dries; dried timber is harder to bend (easier to break!) and kiln dried is worst.
    • All timber springs back a little after bending. Pine usually has more memory than hard woods. Radiata is one of the worst. Therefore, allow for spring back.
    • Compression strap should be stainless steel or galvanised steel. Mild steel reacts with the acids in the timber and puts a blue stain on the timber.
    • Compression strap must be adjusted firm.
    • Every piece of timber has a minimum bending radius depending on its species, thickness, milling, dryness, your skill and technique, and a random factor. Some is just plain hornery!
    • Bending in an industrial weight plastic bag is far easier than using a traditional steam box. With a steam box you only have 30-60 seconds after removing the timber from the steam box to complete the bending. With a bag the timber is still being steamed while you bend it.
    • You need heaps and heaps of clamps!


    Hope this helps


    Cheers

    Graeme

  11. #10
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    Video of using plastic bag tubing:
    https://youtu.be/--iPQIwSEJM?list=PL...7F6ITulv5jRt5Y

  12. #11
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    A bit of lateral thinking there - good stuff !

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  14. #13
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    I've been involved in a little steam bending, and would agree with everything Graeme says. In addition, I'd say that it helps to have quite a few hands who all know what their job is.
    We were bending 4" x 2" spotted gum for wheels for vintage cars. From memory we had a galvanised compression strap, and importantly, it had a screw jack at one end that could be slightly relaxed if necessary, as the wood bent. We were using a traditional steam box, steamed the wood for about 2 hours (1hour per inch) and had to work fast. The half wheel was left on the form until we were ready to bend the next one, when it was transferred to a clamping setup that held it in shape, and left there until the maker was ready to use it.
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  15. #14
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    Steam bending is about 30% having suitable species at the right moisture content, 30% having a good steam pot, and 140% gut busting work with sweat pouring off you while you handle a hot piece of timber and force it to your will. I learnt a little bit from my grandad, who was pretty good at it.




    He might of had a bit more practice then most...
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