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  1. #1
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    Default “Stitching” wood

    Hi, I am fairly new here and not sure that I am posting in the correct place, so I apologise in advance and ask you to move the post to the correct place if I am wrong.

    I have seen photos of several pieces of wood that have cracks or splits through the surface to the other side. The splits have been dealt with by making a feature out of the perceived flaw. Some have a contrasting “X” placed to join the 2 sides; others have used something like a wide thread of leather or some other thick kind of thread, others have simply used a contrasting wood X.

    Does anyone know how they actually “do” the thread joining and be willing to share with us? I have searched the web several times with no luck but that maybe simply a matter of me not having the words to properly express myself.

    Any assistance would be much appreciated!!

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  3. #2
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    Default

    The "X" is called a Butterfly, and is just a piece of very strong timber placed perpendicular to the grain of the main timber to prevent the crack getting wider. (splits only usually occur along the grain). Theoretically that should stop the crack moving either way, so it could be filled with epoxy.

    The contrasting colour is only for visual purposes (i.e. don't try to hide it - it won't be hidden - so make a feature of it). Chisel/saw out the X hole in the main piece, glue in the X which is probably done on a band saw.

    Don't know anything about the threading aspect though.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  4. #3
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    Default

    The first method you mention uses an insert commonly referred to as a bow-tie or butterfly, this video shows a method of making them
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Iryk-76bmH4
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Hobart, Tas
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Chisel/saw out the X hole in the main piece ...
    I read this as “Chainsaw out the X hole” and thought that was a little agricultural, then re-read it correctly, which was far more satisfactory

  6. #5
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    Default

    Here in the Pacific Northwest, the First Nations make 'kerf-bent' boxes out single sheets of western red cedar or yellow cedar.
    3 of the corners have very elaborate undercut jointing which meshes together with steam bending.
    The 4th corner is actually stitched together with spruce roots. Near as I can tell from the boxes that I have seen in the University
    of British Columbia Museum of Anthropology, the two box corner roots overlap diagonally across a thinned corner.
    With the the fitted bottom, most of the boxes are watertight to be used for cooking or maybe oolichan fish oil storage.

    I don't believe that you could "stitch" a wood crack to close it.
    The roots are all about the size of #18 tarred nylon seine net cord.
    But there's no stress load on the box corner at all when it is closed.

    Personally, I think that bowties (aka butterflies) are an attractive feature, functional or not.

  7. #6
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    Default

    Thanks for the explanation and the name “butterfly” or “bow ties” both of which are much better than X! I have looked at the you tube video on butterflies which was very helpful. I also let my mind wander after reading the post by Robson Valley and found another you tube video that actually showed the wood stitching which does actually pull the crack closed, rather just fits the gap left by the crack, so not very practical for filling the gap but works if just a visual is required.

    Many thanks to all who replied.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robson Valley View Post
    Personally, I think that bowties (aka butterflies) are an attractive feature, functional or not.
    Me too!

    mick

  9. #8

    Default

    When doing a ‘butterfly ‘ or ‘bowtie’ , I like to use rosewood or dense Australian red cedar, make ur butterfly, then trace onto job, then I use a grinder with a fibre disc on it to go a small taper to the butter fly, half a degree is enough , then route the tracing out . Then clean nicely with the chisel,in a 50mm thick top I will go down 30mm into it . A little over half the thickness of the job is nice , if less than half way thru it will make the fault curl up abit..
    PVA , water proof stuff is good , tap ur butterfly into position with nice light weight taps . Make the butterfly a few mm thicker than where it is going .. then you can sand off the extra bit later when the glue is dry ...
    ideally the butterfly is of a less dense timber than the job..



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