Thread: Straight edges

I’ve got a 2700mm aluminium straight edge from Bunnies, very useful to have a long reference line. I use it for checking board edges that I plane with my Stanley No 7, and also to check overall flatness of things, eg my bench top. I might not use it much, but I really need it when I do!

thick 4mm angle aluminium light to use, thick it wont get bent out of shape and as long as aunt maudes flat chest.

Hi Brett,

I have the iGaging straight edge. It came in a leather pouch which helps avoid dings when it’s not in use.

I really like the iGaging - had it a few years and no problems.

Regards,

Brian

My recommendation is the steel Veritas straight edge.

Regards from Perth

Derek

i have an igaging 36" 1/64ths straight-edge, the pouch is nice. it's got a bit of heft to it. i don't need it very often, so the weight is fine, but if i were using it all day i might want something lighter. i wouldn't mind having a metric one too, but i think maybe those were out of stock or something when i ordered it

i've also got a lufkin 1m steel ruler, probably from bunnings or something. it's useless as a straight-edge -- it's banana'd like 1-2mm over its length, concave one side, convex the other. and for measurements at that length it's as easy to reach for a tape measure, so it doesn't get much use at all really

0-8" Moore & Wright engineers square
0-12" Rabone Chesterman rule
If I want to check a straight edge greater than a foot long I tend to use a decent quality spirit level; they have machined flat surfaces, are lightweight and of a deep enough cross section that they don't flex. Another handy characteristic of aluminium spirit levels is that they will leave black marks when rubbed against timber; those marks are the high spots that you need to remove.
But it really depends on what I want the edge for... if I'm jointing board edges I don't worry about getting two matching straight edges; I concentrate on getting two mating edges. If one is a bee's winky convex so long as the other has a matching winky's worth of concavity there's no problem.
A relatively cheap straightedge can be sourced from metal suppliers who sell extruded aluminum profiles. The key with those is to compare THREE of them against each other; if all three match they are all straight.

I also recommend the steel Veritas straight edge.

I really appreciated the value of my 36" veritas straight edge when needing to set the joiner tables co-planar - the spirit level was no match.

Have two of the aluminium Veritas straight edges, 600 mm an 1200 mm I think,very happy with both of them, but being Aluminium on careful they don’t get knocked about.

Cheers Matt.

Depends what you're doing with it. For machine setup, definitely the Veritas steel one. For general shop work, layout, etc, any bit of aluminium extrusion from bunnings will be perfectly fine

I've been using a concreter's screed I picked up from Sydney Tools.

For straight edges I use:

• Steel rulers - 150, 300 and 600 mm,
• Spirit levels - 750 and 1200 mm, and
• Aluminium extrusion - 2500 mm.

Any straight edge that is significantly longer than you need is a PIA.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Any straight edge that is significantly longer than you need is a PIA.

So true!
That's why I have 150mm, 300mm, 450mm and 1m steel rulers.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Any straight edge that is significantly longer than you need is a PIA.

Better too long than too short though!