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5th November 2013, 02:32 PM #1
How straight does a straight edge need to be?
Ok so it sounds like a silly question but I was after some comment on how straight a straight edge needs to be in a woodworking situation.
I have decided a straight edge would be quite handy in the garage to help set the knives in a jointer, as well as some other general tasks such as checking the alignment of the table wings on the table saw as well as possibly using it as a guide for the router or circular saw.
So my first stop was the Carbatec website to look at the Veritas offerings. They have steel versions from 12" to 36" and an aluminium version at 38". As expected these are fairly accurate along their lengths (0.025mm over the entire length) which seems good, however the length seems somewhat short for checking along the table length of the jointer or to be effective as a tool guide.
I then started to have a look around at some other tool suppliers and came across this range (SYDNEY TOOLS - Straight Edges) which claim:
"A structural grade alloy section, accurately manufactured to offer the straight, clean lines that are essential where a straight edge is required."
The advantage here is the range of lengths available 1200 - 3600mm. They seem to be a 35x85 aluminium section which would be good for a tool guide and the ability to easily stand on its own edge without any support.
Out of interest I had a look around at Bunnings when I was last there. The tool section seems to have regular spirit levels as well as what appears to be screeding tools which appear similar to the ones above but with a handle (although I am not sure just how straight these would be).
There is also the option of just a section of aluminium rectangular extrusion of a similar size to the straight edges above.
At this stage I am thinking that the aluminium extrusion may be the way to go. The thought of being able to get a 6m length and being able to create a number of smaller straight edges is very appealing. Having to wield around a 2400mm straight edge when setting the blades on a jointer isn't all that appealing.
So after that long winded story I would be interested to hear what others may be doing. I am confident that the Veritas would offer the most accurate out of those mentioned, however is a raw length of aluminium going to be just as effective for the tasks I am looking at undertaking?
Cheers
Stinky.Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.
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5th November 2013, 03:18 PM #2.
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5th November 2013, 04:30 PM #3
Thanks Bob. Do you roughly remember the price of the extrusion?
The local Bunnings have 50x30x2mm hollow rectangular Al in 1m @ $17.10 and 3m @ $51.30. I had intended to check out the local Capral place, they have the sizes listed on their website but I would need to check on the prices.
It would be interesting to know how straight that the Al sections would be given they are directly off the mill with no refinement. I have a feeling they would be perfect for a general straight edge for cutting down sheet goods, but I am not sure if they will be accurate enough for machinery setup.Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.
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5th November 2013, 04:47 PM #4.
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5th November 2013, 04:47 PM #5
Capral Aluminium Extrusions, Suppliers - Security Windows & Doors - Capral will sell some of their 6M lengths in halves.
I bought half a 2" x 1" with a .01" wall thickness for about $30 & the bloke chopped it up into 1200, 900, 600, & 300mm lengths for me.Cliff.
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5th November 2013, 10:04 PM #6Taking a break
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At work we (well, I) have a Veritas 36" steel straightedge for machine setup, mill finish ally extrusions are fine for everything else.
Just as a side note, we bought one of those 'proper' 2.7m ally straight edges (white with a red label, I think the brand was called Master Finish) ... had a 2mm bow over the length. Got a 2.4m as well, same deal. It's now labelled the 'not straight edge'
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6th November 2013, 01:18 AM #7
I use my Veritas 2' long steel for setting the planer tables at the same hieght for a blade change, all I need is 2" over onto the outfeed to tell me up/down/OK
For other machinery setup I use the above or if I need a bit longer I have a 1000mm steel rule
Pete
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6th November 2013, 01:30 AM #8
aldi is your friend , or will be when they get to SA
Ashore
The trouble with life is there's no background music.
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6th November 2013, 11:35 AM #9Hewer of wood
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I've got the 38" alloy LV. Effectively it's longer than the nominal length as in some applications I can slide it along the surface to be checked.
For short-piece checking I use an expensive UK-made 150mm rule that I've checked against my LV 12" steel job.
To mark out some sheets for cutting I got a long level from Alltools/TotalTools/whatever for maybe $40 and checked it against the long LV; it's concave by about a thou. Good enough.
Alloy is prone to dings so take care with it if you want not only to check but to mark.Cheers, Ern
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6th November 2013, 11:58 AM #10
There is also the local product from Michael Connor Woodwork:
Workbenches and Accessories
scroll to the bottom of the page.
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6th November 2013, 02:00 PM #11Member
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It depends on what you want to do. If you are jointing edges to glue together, it pays to have an accurate straight edge. Blackwoods (which has offices in every state) carries a range of steel straight edges from 600mm to 3m in length. https://www.blackwoods.com.au/search...dges/202004872
I have a 1500mm one and use it often to check for flatness. They aren't cheap, but are accurate. I could use a shorter one at times, but it is nice to have the length when joining boards.
I don't know how good the aluminium ones are, but they would be lighter (but I suspect easier to damage). As you say, being thicker, they could stand up on their own, but they are that shape to give enough strength to keep their straightness.
For accurate work I just don't think that buying a piece of extrusion would be accurate enough, but you might get lucky.
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6th November 2013, 03:46 PM #12Hewer of wood
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Agree that fitness for purpose is the starting point.
How do you know the Blackwoods are accurate starr?Cheers, Ern
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6th November 2013, 04:29 PM #13Member
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When I plane two edges and the straight edge shows them to be flat, they go together without any light visible at the join, so that's straight enough for me.
I usually put the straight edge on the board and rotate it back and forth a bit. If it rotates at the centre, the centre is too high and similarly for the ends. I then use a thin piece of paper to make sure it doesn't slip under the edge anywhere along the board being checked.
The company should be able to tell you how accurate the straight edges are guaranteed to be (I'm surprised the website doesn't state this.)
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6th November 2013, 04:49 PM #14Hewer of wood
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Yeah.
OP asked for something reliable at the get-go as the Yanks say.
I was surprised to get my result with a cheap level.
But could only know that with the benefit of quality gear. The maker guarantees 'The reference edge is machined flat to within 0.003" over the entire length.' re V. alloy straight edges.Cheers, Ern
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6th November 2013, 04:57 PM #15Hewer of wood
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Re fitness for purpose, my second bandsaw turned out to be somewhat agricultural.
The wheels could not be adjusted to be co-planar (the motive for getting the long LV/V straight edge).
The blade guides were a pox to reset after a blade change.
Well as it turned out it was perfectly possible to cut a straight line without co-planarity.
And blade changes could easily be reduced by using a bimetal blade and sharpening it in situ.
Horses for courses.Cheers, Ern
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