Thread: Straightening walls for plaster work

Is that straightening by using the brick ties to pull the frames straight, or straightening by hitting studs with a planer/adding packing where needed???

There isnt much point in straightening until the job is weather proof. Rain, wind and sun will continue to cause timber movement, often making it necessary for the job to be done all over again. If you have a stud that is so bent it requires crippling from the brick side, then that would be much easier to do without bricks in the way. Otherwise do 'em later.

As long as roofs on, windows are in and house is wrapped no problem

Don't try to pull the wall straight by using the bricks,the brick ties should be only there to tie the bricks to the wall.
As mentioned straighthen the internal wall studs after the building is weather proof.

...and you cannot cripple/cut external load bearing studs, replace them.

Originally Posted by wolften

...and you cannot cripple/cut external load bearing studs, replace them.

Quite legal in NSW. Crippled stud should be cut no more than half through, timber wedge driven into cut, skew nail, Reinforce side of stud.

Originally Posted by rustynail

Quite legal in NSW. Crippled stud should be cut no more than half through, timber wedge driven into cut, skew nail, Reinforce side of stud.

...perhaps a good thing you don't get cyclones down there.

Having been building all my working life as has been said dont do it till the place is right ready to line this includes the moisture content to your building standard then if the bricks are on srtaighten by planing and packing, if the bricks are not on you can cut and wedge with a block nailed beside to your local requirments,best you check with the localcouncil firts.

Ian

Originally Posted by rustynail

Quite legal in NSW. Crippled stud should be cut no more than half through, timber wedge driven into cut, skew nail, Reinforce side of stud.

Maximum 2 consecutive studs allowable.

NO NOT straighten studs until all brickwork is complete.

NO NOT straighten studs until last brick laid is cured for 5 days

Nail off your brick ties (slope UPWARDS approx 10 to 15 degrees) at door studs, window studs and wall intersections first then use a straight edge or offset string line to straighten remainder between these. Standard galvanised clouts are NOT ALLOWED, use structural galvanised Teco or Pryda nails 2 per brick tie.

Ties can be used to straighten studs (in or out) providing it is no greater than 6mm.

Between 6mm and 10mm cut max 2/3 into stud, wedge if the bow is towards the brickwork, push and close saw kerf with skew nail if bow is away from brickwork.

In both instances, cleat each side of stud with 20mm thick timber extending min 600mm each side of cripple cut. The cripple cut should be in the middle of the length of the stud which may require replacing any noggins to allow for cleats. Cleats must have min 6 nails each side of cripple cut.

If the stud is bowed greater than 10mm, it must be replaced.

Appreciate! Thanks guys.