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Thread: Straightening a small warp
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31st May 2005, 12:47 PM #1New Member
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Straightening a small warp
I am making a bread box out of old timber. There is a slight warp in the rear 'wall' of the box which means that the side walls are not square, and this will translate into a floor that is not flat, and this will translate into one of the 'feet' of the box being about 1cm higher than the other three. Is there a way of getting rid of the warp apart from replacing the rear wall. The box can be clamped straight but springs back. Is steaming an option?
Zundfolge
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31st May 2005, 01:07 PM #2
Hi Zundfolge,
I can't really answer your question, so will play devil's advocate and ask you a question instead. Does it have to be straight? Would there be any chance that compensating for the warp will make the breadbox more interesting, i.e. turn the bug into a feature?
Cheers
RufflyRustic
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31st May 2005, 03:16 PM #3
there are ways to do this but it takes heat, pressure and usually steam or water immersion ...... so long as the original piece of timber was the correct domensions to begin with.......
but I would use a new piece of timber
Steve
Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
Australia
....catchy phrase here
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31st May 2005, 05:01 PM #4
Hi Zundfolge
Straighten the timber (as you imply it is a desired piece). The effects of an out-of-square piece will just create increasing problems as you proceed.
Two ways:
(1) Depending on the degree of warp, and where it is situated, I might use a scrub place to flatten it.
(2) If the board is wide, rip it up into a few narrower widths, square the edges, and glue together.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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31st May 2005, 07:20 PM #5Registered
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What sort of warp is it?
If its warp factor three you are in trouble.....
Al :eek:
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31st May 2005, 07:49 PM #6Originally Posted by zundfolge
Keep in mind though, if you are going to make an attempt at flatterning it by machine or hand, make sure it doesn't flex whilst your working it,,,,,,and most wood you come across is thin enough for this to happen...... this is why in my opinion you'd be better off running it through the jointer first to flattern one side,,,,at least,,,,,so that when you flip it and take it to the workbench your newly flatterned side sits steady on the workbench for working the other side with hand plane.....I'm probably stating the obvious though.......
or.....just accept it warped.....and force the joint and be done with it....
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31st May 2005, 08:30 PM #7
Aye Cap'n, I kinnee giv 'er enymore, she'll no teck it.
Boring signature time again!
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31st May 2005, 08:32 PM #8Registered
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Originally Posted by outback
Al