Thread: suitability of wood question

Kwila/Merbau would be better but again, you have to pay. There isn't any structural reason not to use Oregon. I would do everything to preserve it such as pretreat it with a preservative like CN timber oil, allow some time until it soaks in and the timber feels dry, overcoat with a good oil-based 3 in 1 and a gloss enamel (oil-based is my preference for exposed joinery). If it's appropriate, I would put wheels on the back legs so you can pick them up at the front and wheel undercover out of rain and sun, they'll last years if you mainly keep them in the shade and dry. Don't put anything on the feet that will retain moisture.

Oregon sitting against Oregon at the joints will rot out fast. The rest of it will last 10 times longer. Priming it correctly before assembly of those joints and the rest before painting would be the way to go. The primer choice is the question to ask. I know a builder who did gates using Oregon and he had some old lead based primer that he swore by but that is no longer available. All wood will rot at the joints eventually if left in the open. Oregon I've seen go in 5 to 15 years. That possibly depended on its quality. Red Cedar, Jarrah or Red gum could take 60 years I think. Quality nails or screws is important too . Galvanized at least or Copper would possibly be even better probably.

thanks auscab,
I was thinking of not using screws but glue and dowel rod as i thought it would be stronger than screws.

And thanks mic-d, I was going to put some sort of rubber ( or the like) foot thing to keep it just of the ground.
oil paint and treatment sounds good as well.

thanks

Frank

Redwood (Sequoia).

after considering the good advice given here I have decided to use Tassie oak.
I guess they will be heavier than if made with oregon but will look at attaching some kind of wheel to the rear to assist with moving if needed.

thanks to all who replied

Frank

I just completed one for a Christmas present out of Tas Oak, it's certainly no lightweight but I have quite a bit of it so cost was no issue.
After assembly I pulled it back to pieces and on the advice of my local Haymes dealer gave all components 2 coats of oil-based primer followed by 2 coats of acrylic weathershield or whatever they call it. I used 50mm ss decking screws for assembly apart from where I needed gal cuphead bolts. I also used Sika transparent sealant on as many joins as I could access.

Merbau.

Bunnings sell it cheaply in my area.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Merbau is durable but a real worry with staining on hard surfaces.

Originally Posted by mattocks

Ive been asked to make 2 Adirondack chairs for our house.

I have enough Oregon that ive had for a while to do this but not sure if its suitable.
Some of it came when we repalaced fascia and gutters on our house that was built in 1939.
And the rest from a similar aged house i bought from a guy doing a job a few streets away.

They are to be painted and sit outside on a paved but not covered area.

Frank,
some words of warning.

House paints used in Australia prior to about 1965 all contained significant quantities of lead. Lead is a significant neuro toxin.
You do not want to be breathing lead dust and you should not -- I say "should not" because I know some people will -- dispose of the lead contaminated dust in the normal waste stream. Ideally the lead dust will be disposed of via an accredited facility.

Originally Posted by rustynail

Merbau is durable but a real worry with staining on hard surfaces.

This is generally solved in the outdoor furniture business by leaching the boards in a water bath for several weeks. Should be easy enough to set up a bath with the short lengths required. The only downside of kwila as I see it is the weight, but it would be what I'd use

How permanent do you really want these chairs? Often, Adirondack chairs were designed to be built quick and cheap (and light) for portable summer chair duty.

Will they really be left outside in a rot-prone place permanently, or would they be brought inside or kept under cover except when used? I'm not really a fan of mowing around/under chairs, so they don't live out in the grass except when used. I also bring in chairs in the off season, if for no other reason than to avoid them being blown around or ending up full of grass clippings and dead leaves.

I agree with the comment for using merbau I built chairs out of the stuff and 25 years on still look good i haven't paid particular attention to oiling .

Thank you to all for the replies.
I am making them out of tassie oak sourced from several guys on marketplace.
And thanks Ian re the caution with old lead paints.
I use a small electric planer that i can attach to a dust extractor to clean up old paint. I also wear face mask while doing this.
Yes truckjohn, they will be outside on a paved area at all times. I know they will be heavy but I'm looking at options for somehow having a wheel type thing on the rear to aid movement. Though they are unlikely to be moved often or far.
And as per huonpine fans advice i will either paint it before assembly or as he said, disassemble, paint and reassemble.
And use stainless screws.
They will live at the rear of our house which faces north and provides a nice sunny spot in winter and shaded with an umbrella in summer.

Originally Posted by mattocks

And as per huonpine fans advice i will either paint it before assembly or as he said, disassemble, paint and reassemble.

When I assembled before painting I only fitted the first and last seat slats. All the other slats I pre-drilled so that after painting the pilot drill only needed to go into the side as well as cutting the countersink in the slat.