Is this suitable for a cutting board?

[RSD]

I'm thinking of adding a 40mm wide strip of blackbutt down each side of this board to make a cutting board, but I'm a little unsure about whether the tight curve of the grain will create problems in the future with bending/flexing along the glue join and possible separation of the join? When I make cutting boards I normally have thinner strips with the grain on all strips vertical.

Any thoughts from the brains trust?
P1.jpg

[elanjacobs]

I don't think there'll be any issues with the glue line, provided you use a suitable waterproof glue (polyurethane would be my choice), but the whole board itself might carry on a bit with that much curve in the rings.

Many of the harder natives also have a relatively high silica content which I think is less than ideal for cutting boards in the first place.

[Alkahestic]

If that is spotted gum, I'd consider twice before using it for a chopping board, purely because it will trash your kitchen knives in no time.

Regardless, I made a similar style chopping board except it was Amoora/Vic Ash/Vic Ash/Amoora. About 35mm thick. When it was flat on the countertop it did start cupping a bit as the surface dried out more than the base. Stuck a couple of felt circles on the underside and the cupping is negligible. Glue is Titebond II and it's been in daily use for probably 3 years now. It gets washed and dried with a towel promptly.

[RSD]

If that is spotted gum, I'd consider twice before using it for a chopping board, purely because it will trash your kitchen knives in no time.

I believe that it might be blackbutt but I'm not 100% sure

Regardless, I made a similar style chopping board except it was Amoora/Vic Ash/Vic Ash/Amoora. About 35mm thick. When it was flat on the countertop it did start cupping a bit as the surface dried out more than the base. Stuck a couple of felt circles on the underside and the cupping is negligible. Glue is Titebond II and it's been in daily use for probably 3 years now. It gets washed and dried with a towel promptly.

This is old old timber - felled at least 40 years ago and about to be repurposed for the second time.

[jack620]

This is old old timber...

If you're suggesting it won't cup because it's well seasoned, timber moves its whole life. Any time you have a higher/lower moisture content on opposite sides it will cup.

[Alkahestic]

jack620 is on the money. The Amoora had spent over a year in my garage, the Vic Ash about 5, and both were likely kiln dried at some point, so the timber was dry. If I'd stored the chopping board on it's side, it would have been fine, but it's too big and heavy to lug around all the time, so it sits on the countertop, hence the need for feet. A few mm gap and there's enough airflow to minimize the uneven drying/absorbing of moisture.

Blackbutt is also bad news for knives. I find it as hard to work as spotted gum, dulls plane blades and chisels quite rapidly, at least the paler variety we get up here anyway.

[GraemeCook]

Most of my cutting boards are Huon pine or celery top pine. The oldest is quite large and 36mm thick. Because of its weight and size I rarely use it unless I am doing some serious cleaver work.

With each generation, my boards have gotten smaller, lighter and thinner. The latest are about 5 years old, about 12 mm thick, and now heavily scarred. If one cups or twists then just feed it through the thicknesser - its just a cutting board - not fine furniture. Every one loves my "rustic" and my "authentic" cheese boards!

Just noticed one is cracked and will soon break. Who cares; its just a cutting board. Will make a couple more next time I am in the shed.