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Thread: Superglue.....
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3rd June 2007, 08:55 PM #16
Thanks for all the responces everyone.
I had been ordering 2oz bottles in the past, and paying about $22 for them, plus a bit of postage on top of that.
Then I was looking on e-bay and saw a model store selling some at fairly good looking prices.
Well, there are a couple of model stores not to far from me, so I went for a look-see.
Managed to score this 1oz bottle for only $7.95.
Anyone had any experiance with this brand. Apparently the model-builders "drink" the stuff, so their stock is always fresh. If it works well, looks like thats where I'll be getting mine.
They did have bigger bottles too, but I didn't get a price on them, cause I thought I'd try the smaller one first.
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3rd June 2007, 09:18 PM #17
One other place tat stocks the stuff is lapidary suppliers
Pepper town at vaginia stock the hot stuff in both 1oz and 2oz bottles a bit cheaper than the usual suspects.
On the matter of drinking it........ don't..... it will send you blind... seriously
A small ammount will cause the fluid in the eye to go permanently milky.
definitely a product to keep well away from children.......there are sooo many ways they could get into trouble with the stuff.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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3rd June 2007, 09:31 PM #18
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3rd June 2007, 09:32 PM #19
LOL, I was trying to be a little lighthearted, in that to "drink" the stuff means to use a lot of it.
The US cuemakers have been using the stuff for a long time too, and its dangers are well documented.
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6th June 2007, 12:06 AM #20
Lignum, I use it where there is a fillet of glue, ie: visible wet glue, and I want it to go off quickly. If it touches the glue, that part sets instantly, and then the action works it's way in. Also used where the joint isn't tight to help build up some meat for the glue to grab onto. Just a pinch sprinkled on will do it. Any excess will brush off easily.
The kicker is, I think, some alcohol based stuff with a hygroscopic agent in it. Alcohol attracts water, and whatever else grabs more water from the air to make it set fast. I don't use it anymore since it's hard to find here, and bicarb is cheaper and works for what I want.
Purpleheart, that stuff is fine. Not quite as good as the Loctite stuff, but certainly not junk.
How do I know that? Well, the reason the 'model builders' (actually racers and plane builders) use so much is because the racers use it to glue tyres onto wheels, and the plane guys use it for almost anything they can use it for. We found the Loctite lasts longer at gluing on tyres than anything else. That stuff you got there was ok in a pinch, some of the other brands were not an option.
Soundy, that milky eye scares me. Especially with the little fella running around. Will keep it even more out of reach than before. That means keeping it out of the house.
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6th June 2007, 05:37 PM #21
Back at the UKworkshop forum, there are members who use pva glue and then a spot of super glue.
It grabs a joint, stops slippage and less clamping sometimes.woody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
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6th June 2007, 08:52 PM #22Senior Member
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Superglue
I swear by Loctite 401. Keep it in the fridge and it never goes hard in the nozzle. Only speciality tool stores have it as it has to be kept in a fridge. Don't buy it off the shelf.
There are actually a number of Loctite superglues for different purposes. Get a fact sheet from your supplier.
However be aware that superglue used on wood products appears to have a life of about 10 years. Spoken to people with boxes glued together with superglue over 10 years ago and the boxes are now lying in pieces.
DonDon Nethercott
http://www.flaminbeads.com
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6th June 2007, 08:56 PM #23
I really only use it as a finish, and to glue the leather tip on the end of the cue (and only sometimes for that).
10 years for each of these things, considering the life they will probably have, is acceptable.
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7th June 2007, 02:41 AM #24
Don, if you take the glue out of the fridge, use it for 10-15 minutes, then put it back in the fridge then you are doing more harm than good to the glue.
The problem is not the temperature, it's the moisture in the air. Taking the bottle from cool to warm is going to cause some condensation inside the bottle, no matter how careful you are. The trick is to buy it from the fridge (if in a loose bottle) and once it's opened, keep it somewhere near to where it will be used.
I saw a large bottle of 406 Loctite turn to a brick within a month after being shuttled from the fridge to the track and back to the fridge. Expensive foul up that was...
The stuff I buy is Loctite, but not numbered like it should be. It is the proper stuff, but for the Japanese market it's labelled differently, and packaged differently. The bottle kept inside a mylar pouch (air/moisture tight) with a silica pack, 2 fine nozzle extensions and a special shrouded pin for when the nozzle becomes blocked. Pretty nice little setup, especially for the price.
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7th June 2007, 08:47 PM #25Senior Member
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Superglue
I've had my superglue 2 years now (in the fridge) and it has never blocked up and still runs as freely as the day I bought it.
Obviously I don't use it often, I usually use PVA, keep the SG for special jobs that won't have to hold for many years.
DonDon Nethercott
http://www.flaminbeads.com
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