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5th July 2007, 10:06 PM #31Intermediate Member
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- Nov 2005
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- Melb. Outer East.
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- 44
I use a rebate cutter in the router to cut the slots. Easy to set up to match buttons, and you don't end up with a lot of extra slot.
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5th July 2007 10:06 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th July 2007, 05:39 AM #32
Mick,
I think a thread as you suggested would be fantastic. Sometimes the best teachers are those who have just got their heads around a topic because they still remember the difficult aspects and know what made the penny drop for them.
Some people are afraid to ask the so called "dumb" questions which is their loss but a thread as proposed by you would help these people too. Go for it.- Wood Borer
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6th July 2007, 11:41 AM #33
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7th July 2007, 06:23 PM #34
I haven't answered before because I have a drawer full of pressed steel table buttons which work fine, but knew I had a plan for wooden ones somewhere...finally found it.
This is the first page of 3, the others detail the jig for both tablesaw and radial arm. Will scan and post if anyone is interested.
Cheers,Andy Mac
Change is inevitable, growth is optional.
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7th July 2007, 06:28 PM #35.
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Location
- Victoria
- Posts
- 5,215
Andy not knowing how they are made, the outcome on the bottom pic looks identical to how i described mine at the start. Post the other pages please
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8th July 2007, 03:05 PM #36
Here they are Lignum, hope it helps.
Cheers,Andy Mac
Change is inevitable, growth is optional.
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8th July 2007, 03:08 PM #37
I don't know what's happening with the scans,,,says I have saved them at 100Kb, then they post at substantially smaller. If you can't read them I'll pm them across as full scans, 350Kb odd.
Cheers,Andy Mac
Change is inevitable, growth is optional.
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9th July 2007, 09:04 AM #38newbie that's keen
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Location
- Bonny Hills, NSW
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 517
Andy,
I could not read the documents but am very interested. If you could PM them to me I'd appreciate it very much
thanks
Mick
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11th July 2007, 08:23 AM #39
Okay, I am trying some for a flower table I'm working on for SWMBO. Just made them the "Lignum" way and they look fine. One question: Of course you don't want the button flush with the edge, or it won't pull the top down tight. So how much space do you typically allow between the edge of the apron and the flat surface of the button that is against the table top (if that's clear)? [I will use the Domi to cut the slots and can adjust the height pretty much to anything.]
I have always mounted the corner blocks about 1/4 inch below the top edge of the apron, but that seems a bit much for this method unless you don't mind them tilting quite a lot.Cheers,
Bob
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11th July 2007, 09:50 AM #40
It depends on the timber but I usually make the slot at least 1/4" below the top of the rail.
- Wood Borer
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11th July 2007, 10:01 AM #41.
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Location
- Victoria
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- 5,215
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11th July 2007, 10:26 AM #42
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11th July 2007, 11:32 AM #43.
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Location
- Victoria
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