Thread: Table saw not cutting in a straight line (cuts square, not straight)

Easy mistake to make and you're not the first.
One thing to remember is that after you've dressed the timber nice and square, don't lie it down on the bench, or it will cup again. Stand it on edge so that the air circulates around it. That way you'll minimise the chances of it cupping. Also, try to plan your work so that there isn't a long time between dressing the timber and gluing up.

That though had crossed my mind, but like many I "assumed" that the boards were flat. As they say "assume = ass out of U & me." We all learn from "others mistakes."

As I said before the good operators find their mistakes before anyone else does. So if you find it first it isn't a mistake???

Originally Posted by AlexS

Easy mistake to make and you're not the first.
One thing to remember is that after you've dressed the timber nice and square, don't lie it down on the bench, or it will cup again. Stand it on edge so that the air circulates around it. That way you'll minimise the chances of it cupping. Also, try to plan your work so that there isn't a long time between dressing the timber and gluing up.

Great advice on material handling. Also a good idea to keep away from direct sunlight and strong sources of UV light.

Board movement is also an issue I face regularly when laminating up boards / stock to cut components for inlay banding! The boards are a sandwich of veneers & thin boards and may not be a symmetrical glue up. Anyone who veneers a board will also face the same issues. It is important to let the board steadily reach or re-stabilize to equilibrium moisture content - EMC.

I want my glue-ups to stay flat before, while and after I cut the parts. Otherwise I face the same issues as the OP's problem. After the initial clamp up between cauls and the glue set I remove the plastic (or grease proof paper) etc and place the laminated board between MDF cauls under reduced clamp pressure while the glue fully cures. I then inspect the boards and return them between the cauls with only sufficient clamp pressure to prevent warping / cupping as the laminated board reaches near EMC over a week or so. Prevents a lot of hassles.

Originally Posted by zoovegroover

So, I’m almost embarrassed to post this but I think I’ve found the issue and it’s me being a stupid idiot. I guess sometimes when we’re working, we don’t see the forest for the wood.

The ash I was cutting was slightly cupped and of course when you tilt the blade that cup is gonna take stock away from the blade, resulting in the arc type cut I was confused by.

I since put in a piece of walnut without any kinks or issues and it cut fine. Not perfect, mind you, mitres always have a way of being a bit fussy, but much much better. On a piece of dead flat ply? Perfect.

Lesson here I guess is, always mill your stock correctly before you do anything. What I was working on didn’t require critical square and flat stock so I didn’t bother and as a result ran into this problem.

Like I say, very embarrassing to admit this, but who among us hasn’t made some silly mistakes working on this wonderful hobby of ours?

I almost asked if you’d tried a piece of MDF or similar. I wish Ihad now, might have saved you some stress.

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

I almost asked if you’d tried a piece of MDF or similar. I wish Ihad now, might have saved you some stress.

yep, I wish I’d tried a different piece, too. Funny how we miss simple things sometimes. Get all worked up and don’t see the obvious. Ps. I accidentally clicked “pictures please” on your post, so just ignore

Don't worry too much. I and many other are learning what not to do and how to test things in order to avoid a similar post later on.

you are making me much smarter so thanks.

Agree Elan. I have a quality crosscut blade in my mitre saw & it produced terrible cuts, off the line & wonky. Specialty Saws in Croydon weaved their magic & the blade is now spot on!