Thread: Table saw for Picture frames

hmmm, you could use a table saw, again it will need to be fine tuned, but if you get a good one there will be no slop.
As an alternative you could get one of these. Super accurate, and you could use your old mitre saw to cut close to the mark first(the guillotine only trims). You could use a hand held circ saw to rip.
The problem with a planer/thicknsser for old floor boards is the first time (in fact every time) you pass one through, the ingrained dirt will chip the blade and you'll get ugly track marks. You either want to take off the outside with a hand planer first or get a drum sander.

However table saw jointer planer are great tools to have so don't let that discourage you.

Cheers
Michael

I used to make lots of picture frames and used the Carba-tec guillotine for the final trimming cut which is pretty accurate However, one of the most important things to make perfect joints, is making sure the sides and top and bottom of the frames are all perfectly the same length. One piece being just a smidge shorter than one of the other pieces will throw the whole thing out of square when you come to the final joining of the frame.
A frame clamp of sorts is essential too, this will pull the frame in tight and square.

I don't use the guillotine any more because I found that the most important thing was to get the sides and tops all equal lengths. Get that right and you are 99% there.
A guillotine is not cheap unless you are going to do a lot of framing. A cheaper and equally effective way to create a perfect 45 deg angle is to use a shooting board and is very accurate. I found it difficult to get a perfect 45deg angle using the TS but maybe my TS is not as accurate as some of the more expensive ones.

Originally Posted by pcp20us

Hi All

I am making frames from old tung and grove boards.

I have made a few frames but have difficult getting accurate cuts so all four corners glued together and looked professional. I was using a ryobi drop saw ( way to much play for an accurate cut)

I am looking at getting a table saw like the $500 ones at bunnngs (Makita 255mm Table Saw MLT100 I/N: 6240108 $499


I want a table saw to rip the old floor boards. Question is are table saws accurate enough for making frames. I watched you tube vids where guys use table saws. Just not sure what quality they are.

Have being looking around for old style saw with inbuilt planner as well so can strip timber, rip and 45 cits for frames.

Would appreciate others advice on this.

i had the same problem wen i was making picture frame ryobi mitre sawa are junk ryobi is a alrite brand for some things but not for that id suggest selling it and buying somthing better

Originally Posted by pcp20us

I am making frames from old tung and grove boards.

I have made a few frames but have difficult getting accurate cuts so all four corners glued together and looked professional. I was using a ryobi drop saw ( way to much play for an accurate cut)

I am looking at getting a table saw like the $500 ones at bunnngs (Makita 255mm Table Saw MLT100 I/N: 6240108 $499

I want a table saw to rip the old floor boards. Question is are table saws accurate enough for making frames. I watched you tube vids where guys use table saws. Just not sure what quality they are.

Have being looking around for old style saw with inbuilt planner as well so can strip timber, rip and 45 cits for frames.

Would appreciate others advice on this.

pcp20us, I think the honest answer to your question is NO.
within your budget -- $500 -- you wont get a table saw with the repeatable accuracy you need for picture framing

my suggestion is stay with the Ryobi but use a shooting board and decent hand plane (Low angle jack or #6), or a mitre trimmer, to trim the mitres
set up the appropriate jigs and stops to get equal length sides

The passion for spending $$$$$$ to get perfect miters from the get-go escapes my comprehension.

It's far simpler to cut almost perfect pieces, place the pieces in corner clamps (Google is your friend), and re-cut along the imperfect miter using the slot provided in the clamp with a back saw. Re-clamp and repeat as necessary. Unless you're really ham-handed in the initial work, three or four cycles should be sufficient to achieve perfect miters. Cut the initial pieces slightly oversize to allow for the re-cutting.

BTW, I used a similar procedure for cutting the mating joints here ( https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/fou...dy-rest-68735/ ) with a circular saw.

Cheers,
Joe

Originally Posted by ian

pcp20us, I think the honest answer to your question is NO.
within your budget -- $500 -- you wont get a table saw with the repeatable accuracy you need for picture framing

my suggestion is stay with the Ryobi but use a shooting board and decent hand plane (Low angle jack or #6), or a mitre trimmer, to trim the mitres
set up the appropriate jigs and stops to get equal length sides

Ok. This sounds a little like double dutch to me, so i need to get more info.

I used a good quality drop saw, reset the saw to tru 90 degress and reset the 45 degress so it was true. But the joints are not much better than i got from my ryobi. So i think a drop saw is not the answer. Thanks for advice about a $500 table saw.

I knew getting true 45 was not simple but did not know it was this difficult!!

Originally Posted by ian

pcp20us, I think the honest answer to your question is NO.
within your budget -- $500 -- you wont get a table saw with the repeatable accuracy you need for picture framing

my suggestion is stay with the Ryobi but use a shooting board and decent hand plane (Low angle jack or #6), or a mitre trimmer, to trim the mitres
set up the appropriate jigs and stops to get equal length sides

pcp, I've had the opportunity to use a table saw with the repeatable accuracy you seem to be seeking -- however, the saw, an Altendorf, would have cost more than $20,000

Originally Posted by pcp20us

Ok. This sounds a little like double dutch to me, so i need to get more info.

I used a good quality drop saw, reset the saw to tru 90 degress and reset the 45 degress so it was true. But the joints are not much better than i got from my ryobi. So i think a drop saw is not the answer. Thanks for advice about a $500 table saw.

I knew getting true 45 was not simple but did not know it was this difficult!!

have a look at Derek Cohen's article on using a shooting board
Shooting for Perfection

Hi Ian, that was a quick reply. Yes i just found that article care of google.

I am not sure if i want perfection, just want a frame that looks professional enough for myself and that will remain glued together etc, and that i may be able to sell in the future.

Um i am a learner and to make this seems a bit of a tall order at the moment.

Found this compund mitre saw, are these accurate enough?
productimages

Also found this mitre trimmer, assume these only good for softwood and not hardwood.
productimages.

If you can set the saw so you can take 45º cuts either side and you put stops on the MS fence so you get two pairs exactly the same length there isn't any more to it than that. Did you check your 45º cuts by doing two, putting them together and checking with an accurate square? did you check the saw cut is perpendicular to the table? do you clamp the work peces down when doing the 45º cuts, they tend to slip.

The link to the trimmer is the same design as I posted earlier, mine is a carbatec one but it easily trims hardwood too.

Cheers
Michael

In the recent months as part of a house renovation, I have been required to fit quite a bit of window architrave, all with mitered corners. There's no power on site and I prefer hand tools anyway, so I made a permanent 45 degree shooting board to use with my LN low angle block plane. Works a treat, takes about an hour to make and is cheap as chips.

Firstly let me say that I do not have one of these but I have looked at them before and can't see why they should not work well - bearing in mind the comments above regarding exact lengths.

If you go the way of a table saw this may be your answer.

Dual Faced Mitre Gauge : CARBA-TEC

Hey PCP,

If you are going to be doing a few frames (Beleive me that once you start you can't stop) do your self a favour and get a Carb-a-tec Mitre trimmer, you will not be sorry, I use mine for doing boxes and all sorts of things, best money I have spent in years. I use my table saw for doing the rebates and sometimes a bevel on the front edge, or the routertable for something fancier.

HazzaB

Right-i -o then.

This is all great info. I have just completed a frame I made with the pieces cut from a decent drop saw, mentioned ast the beginning of the post. Its a better result than i have had before.

The idea of using a stop measure so all peices are exactly the same is a no brainer, as there where 1 or 2 mm difference in the lengths.

I like the trimmer, but with blades at $193 for a replacement set, I think i will make up a shooting board.

So does someone have a simple set up to make for a beginner? I suppose its about getting the 45 degress accurate.

Also i do not have a hand plane so what would be the best option? ( price in mind)

Ok Thank for your help and advice. The frames are the easy option, geting the great photos is something that can take time !!

Pete

Originally Posted by pcp20us

snip

I think i will make up a shooting board.

So does someone have a simple set up to make for a beginner? I suppose its about getting the 45 degress accurate.

Also i do not have a hand plane so what would be the best option? ( price in mind)

Ok Thank for your help and advice. The frames are the easy option, geting the great photos is something that can take time !!

Pete

Pete
Derek is a good starting point for building your own 45° shooting board, and the Lie Nielsen site has a free plan, http://www.lie-nielsen.com/pdf/Shoot...d_Fixtures.pdf

the plane? -- personally I like a bit of mass in the plane I use for shooting
my current preference is a #9, a cheaper alternative is a #5 or #6 or a low angle Jack, or a HNT Gordon
the important thing to remember is that the sides don't have to be exactly 90° to the sole (though this helps) however the BLADE must be 90° to that part of your shooting board that supports the piece being shot