Thread: table saw questions

I've made a few different inserts and only raised the blade part the way up on each to allow for different jobs. I think that's the way to go. You don't need many. Maybe make a couple without cutting the slot. That way you can cut slots as you need them.

If you are getting a dado set, you can cut nice tenons with those.

Like our little placticine friend said, once you have a router template for the inserts knock out a few, will only take a few minutes more than for one then you can bang in a new one for each different job.
Router template is just a bit of carpet tape holding the original insert to the MDF, straight cutter with bearing and a little care and enthusiasm.

Originally Posted by Blackers

On Saturday I will be getting my new table saw!
Jason.

As a decent Table Saw will be one of my next buys - I'd be interested to know what you've gone for?

Cheers - Phil

Originally Posted by greenie512

As a decent Table Saw will be one of my next buys - I'd be interested to know what you've gone for?

Phil, the table saw I bought was the Ledacraft TSC 10" table saw $895. I know it isn't the biggest, baddest, most powerful TS on the planet, however it will satisfy all my needs and it will take a dado set, I only have a 6" set, thinking behind that is that I will only be using about 25mm max of the blade at anyone time and it cuts the cost down compared to an 8" set. Plus I read somewhere that a 6' set would be better for a smaller saw. Will post result about that when I have had a bit of a play.
And being a contractor saw will be more portable than a heavier duty table saw.

Jason.

Originally Posted by Blackers

Phil, the table saw I bought was the Ledacraft TSC 10" table saw $895. I know it isn't the biggest, baddest, most powerful TS on the planet, however it will satisfy all my needs and it will take a dado set, I only have a 6" set, thinking behind that is that I will only be using about 25mm max of the blade at anyone time and it cuts the cost down compared to an 8" set. Plus I read somewhere that a 6' set would be better for a smaller saw. Will post result about that when I have had a bit of a play.
And being a contractor saw will be more portable than a heavier duty table saw.

Jason.

Jason, thanks for info .. thats around my budget [or until I see something big and shinny?] .. so will add it to the "look-at" list. Currently the Carba-tec 10" sliding table saw is top of the list at a $100 more. I like the idea of the sliding table and it seems to have a good fence. My intention is to also make it mobile by building it into a cabinet with castors and getting an extended right work surface to boot.

http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/ind..._450_3080_3120

Cheers - Phil

Hi Greenie/Phil

I am using a 10inch JET contractors saw bench, it is very good. Full cast iron table top, weighs around 300 lbs. There is plenty of room for a router in the off side, giving you the use of the sliding saw fence.

I also made a cutoff sled for crosscutting, will crosscut sheets up to around 600mm with geat accuracy. For bigger sheets I bought a large TRITON sliding table and fixed it to the saw bench, great for big sheets,and once setup properly, square cuts every time.

Cheers Russell.

Originally Posted by Iain

Like our little placticine friend said, once you have a router template for the inserts knock out a few, will only take a few minutes more than for one then you can bang in a new one for each different job.
Router template is just a bit of carpet tape holding the original insert to the MDF, straight cutter with bearing and a little care and enthusiasm.

Guys, I have to disagree for safety reasons.

Picture this:

Partially cut slot in insert but wants to cut a bit deeper. Leans down to raise the blade height without thinking and turns the crank. The blade bites into the insert and lifts it out of the slot and propels it forward.

Now for the safety question - "Where is his face at this time?"

Cutting the insert to full blade height will not affect the cut quality as it will be zero clearance to the sides of the blade where it really matters. I suggest doing a full height cut first.

Depending on the layout of the insert slot, you may be able to put a locking tab at the back of the insert. Ideally you want two, one front and one back to hold it down (just in case).

I must agree with Groggy here. Mt ZCI is made out of MDF (I have a couple of spares that I made up at the same time. I cut the slot by slowly raising the blade to full height, so there's no danger of it being grabbed by the blade were I to forget and just raise the blade.

As well, the ZCIs have a spring steel tongue at the far end (made out of a piece of packing case strapping (useful stuff!), and a countersunk phillips screw at the operator end.

Cheers!

But I screw in my inserts and cut for different widths.
I was not suggesting an insert that was not secured.

Originally Posted by Iain

But I screw in my inserts and cut for different widths.
I was not suggesting an insert that was not secured.

Sorry Iain but that wasn't clear, and I didn't know what Blackers' skill level was so I posted the warning. Better safe than sorry I guess.

cheers.

Originally Posted by Groggy

I didn't know what Blackers' skill level was so I posted the warning. Better safe than sorry I guess.

cheers.

skill level........not very skilled at anything, ww or not thanks for the info about the inserts..and gotta agree with all safety first.