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Thread: Taper Jig

  1. #1
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    Default Taper Jig

    I am in the planning stage of making a taper jig for a tablesaw. Looking at a number of jigs at various sites and in various books some seem to cut from the foot of the leg upwards and others from the top (below the retained square section) down towards the foot.

    I would guess that if you cut from the foot upwards you may risk some serious tearout at the top of the cut.

    Any experience/opinions?

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  3. #2
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    I shouldn't think so seeing as the angle is so slight. Also the blade will be coming out from one corner, from my way of thinking that should mean minimal or no tearout.

    Robert
    Check my facebook:rhbtimber

  4. #3
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    My jig is set up to cut from the bottom and I've had no problems with tear out or anything else. I take it slow though because I use an 80 tooth cross cut blade rather than my rip blade. I think it helps avoiding tear out. Might be right , might be wrong. No idea. But it works okay.

  5. #4
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    My jig cuts from the top and I'm not happy with it. It's not easy to set up as you might think. I'm thinking of changing it to a bottom cutting jig.

    SB
    Power corrupts, absolute power means we can run a hell of alot of power tools

  6. #5
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    Mine cuts from the top because the critical dimension is where the cut starts below the retained square section.

    Because the angle is so shallow a slight change in fence setting will make a big difference to where the cut starts. Starting from the top lets you set this exactly.

    It also helps catch any errors before you commit to a cut if a leg is seated poorly in the jig or if, despite every effort, a leg has a slightly different width or thickness..
    Cheers, Glen

  7. #6
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    Default Taper jig

    I know you're looking at at table saw jig, but have you considered a bandsaw jig? I had always used a table saw jig (cutting from the top down by the way) but have recently taken classes with Michael Fortune and he showed us his bandsaw tapering jig. Much safer feeling, much gentler and more controllable, and just as flexible and adjustable as the table saw variety. W cut everything from 30x30x800 legs up to one guy cutting 50x100 jarrah.

    I guess this all depends on whether or not you have a bandsaw (doh!), but if you do I would certainly look at that as a great option.
    Shine on you crazy diamond!

  8. #7
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    I have used both bandsaw and table saw jig (cutting from the top). I find the bandsaw a lot safer as well, but needs a lot more cleaning up with the handplane. However, that is surprisingly easy if you can cut close to the marking line. With the bandsaw you want to start at the bottom: a lot easier to get the cut started.
    The advantage of using the table saw (80 teeth) is that it gives a much cleaner cut.
    A fool with a tool is still a fool ...

  9. #8
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    Thanks for all the replies.

  10. #9
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    I use a sled in my thicknessner to taper legs which for me, gives a more accurate taper and better finish than I ever achieved using a taper jig on the table saw.

    I put all legs through the thicknesser together and they therefore all have (or should have) identical tapers. Another advantage is the minimal if any clean up - I usually give them a bit of a touch up with a card scraper and then sand.

    Rgds

    Therapy

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Therapy View Post
    I use a sled in my thicknessner to taper legs which for me, gives a more accurate taper and better finish than I ever achieved using a taper jig on the table saw.

    I put all legs through the thicknesser together and they therefore all have (or should have) identical tapers. Another advantage is the minimal if any clean up - I usually give them a bit of a touch up with a card scraper and then sand.

    Rgds

    Therapy
    I do my tapers in a jointer, without any jig at all. I'll open a thread in the jigs area when Ifind it.

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