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  1. #1
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    Sep 2004
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    Default tapering a board

    I need to put a gentle taper (19mm down to 10mm) along the length of a pine board 300mm wide and 250mm long, a very thin and wide wedge.

    Rather than making a sled to go throught the thicknesser can I just tack on a strip of say 6mm thick masonite at one end, run it through a few times, flip it and do the same again?
    god is in the details

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  3. #2
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    Default

    It sounds like a once off profile to me, no tacking, will vibrate to destruction. I would cut a bunch of thin stuff to profile, stick them together, then you have your wedge, sand it if you like but the final application is the thing that determines your ultimate degree of accuracy required

    Cheers Oddjob1

  4. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hoopy View Post
    I need to put a gentle taper (19mm down to 10mm) along the length of a pine board 300mm wide and 250mm long, a very thin and wide wedge.

    Rather than making a sled to go throught the thicknesser can I just tack on a strip of say 6mm thick masonite at one end, run it through a few times, flip it and do the same again?
    250mm looks too much on the short side to safely go through the thicknesser by itself

    make yourself a 5 or 600mm long carrier board, and mount your short board in the middle, between stops
    use a layer of 3mm MDF to elevate one end -- when you flip the board over, you'll take off the other 3mm
    place some 1.5mm thick packing under the middle of the board
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  5. #4
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    Oberon, NSW
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    Default

    I'd make myself a sled, just for these occasional 'one-offs.' Something quick'n'easy to build, that you won't mind modifying every time you use it.

    Basically just two long(ish) studs with a table fixed in between, adjustable to be tilted to the right angle. Whether that be at half your desired taper, so you can flip the piece and do both sides or at the whole angle so you can machine only the one side.

    I'd also definitely fasten the piece to be machined down securely to the table... with double-sided tape or a couple of small buttons/wedges on the ends.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  6. #5
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    Default .

    The knives are a bit blunt so I did it all by hand, that was fun but I wouldn't want to do it in hardwood or any more than 6 pieces.

    But if I took one of the boards I did today and used that as a support ramp and countersunk screwed the piece to be planed from the underside of the sled (red) and ran that through about 5 times on one side that should work?

    Its just and idea for a stool, will go together with hardwood triangles and cross dowels underneath, maybe.

    Thanks for the help.
    god is in the details

  7. #6
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    provided the sled is long enough -- say 4-600mm -- all you really need is a set of low profile stops so that the piece being planned is not pushed or pulled off the sled
    there's no need to screw the board to the sled
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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