Tasmanian Oak Benchtop

**dupete** · 29th June 2019, 03:47 PM

First post here in many years - too much going on in our life it seems

Chasing advice - We are in the process of building a new house and I got volunteered to build an island benchtop - the vision was old timber but in the end I have done it out of Tassie Oak

IMG_4884.JPG

It is 3 m x 1 m and is glued and screwed with Sika Tech Grip and Kreg pocket hole jointed with 50 mm screws

It's very close to pretty good - unfortunately one board was short and damaged so I cut it and put the damaged piece where the cut-out for the stove top will go - should work well. All level and finished, however I have a few queries about it.

One board - of course on the outside and visible - has some what I would call feathering happening - small bits almost like fine paper peeling away from the edge. I think that it could be from the belt sander although some was visible before sanding - it is minimal but not what I wanted

The island cabinet is 3 m x 720 mm which is giving me an overhang of nearly 300 mm - or 1 and a half boards - I am concerned about if I am going to have to brace it with either a knee brace or similar or will it be strong enough to be self supporting with the Kreg screws? I do tend to be a bit belt and braces with my construction - does anyone have any ideas? I know that there have been a few benchtops made here and I hope that one of you may know

I intend to seal both sides with something. Cabots do a benchtop seal - water based, heat proof etc - or maybe an oil - perhaps Tung oil. What we are wanting is a natural finish - or as near as possible to it, with as little as possible yellowing or darkening. Yes I know - ring the manufacturers - which I will do next week but I am still looking for advice from the forum.

Of course with the sealing - there are a few very minor cracks [hairline] in a couple of places - will the sealant fill these or what else can I do with them

Peter

**dupete** · 4th July 2019, 10:58 AM

Ok, After chasing advice everywhere, and getting bugger all, I have tried a couple of oils, Feast and Watson Tung Oil and Bondall Monocel Timber Benchtop Oil. I tried fairly large test areas on the underside of the bench top. Feast and Watson had warned me that there would be a yellowish tint with theirs, and they were right. The Bondall is nearly clear and looks like when you do a damp bit with some spit to check colours. So I have gone with the Bondall as this is the effect that we wanted, Ironically I did find the Feast and Watson much slower drying

**jazzy69** · 4th July 2019, 12:58 PM

Hi Peter,
Just wondering where you source the tas. Oak from. Is there a local supplier?
Good luck,
Regards,
Ross

**dupete** · 4th July 2019, 04:40 PM

Ross,

I got it from a local timberyard on the Sunnie Coast who I have dealt with for years - they "knew" someone who had some

Peter

**elanjacobs** · 4th July 2019, 06:12 PM

Originally Posted by dupete

One board - of course on the outside and visible - has some what I would call feathering happening - small bits almost like fine paper peeling away from the edge. I think that it could be from the belt sander although some was visible before sanding - it is minimal but not what I wanted

Sounds like there's internal checking in the board that's showing in the surface as well. It's a common defect (I believe it's caused by improper drying) and basically you've just got to live with it. You could go over the whole thing and stick each one down with superglue if you are so inclined.

**dupete** · 5th July 2019, 07:52 AM

Thanks for that, hand sanding seems to have eased it, but at worst I may have to superglue it as you suggest

Peter

**mature one** · 5th July 2019, 08:32 AM

I agree checking is a bugger on tassie oak caused by force drying and popping the cells hard to see till the end process ,good luck glue may be the only answer.

**clear out** · 5th July 2019, 12:09 PM

Hi, I realise this is a bit late but here’s my experience with a Tas Oak kitchen benchtop.
It was old stuff I scored at an auction even had some nice grain.
We took some trouble with the splash back.
I used Tung oil and I’m not at all happy with it in the long term.
Tas Oak hates water, wet steel cans leave rings and bobby pins leave marks.

If water is splashed around the edge of the sink and not dried up it will mark.
Heres a few pics.
H.

**dupete** · 5th July 2019, 01:06 PM

Thanks for that - love the splashback - you did a great job on iy

Her indoors isn't that worried about a few dings in the wood [thank Goodness] and we have got the stovetop in the island.

I'm hopeful - she checked the pix and decided that she's glad we don't have a sink in ours

Pete

**artful bodger** · 5th July 2019, 08:32 PM

If you want "natural" you pay the price.
My tas oak kitchen benchtops had 3 coats of Wattyl estapol. Considering the punishment they get they are still holding up 20 years later.

**dupete** · 5th July 2019, 09:50 PM

I would go for a satin finish, her indoors has a picture in her head of what she wants for the island bench top, she's happy to accept some dings and marks in preference to a varnish style finish. Better if I accept and go from there.

I must admit to damaging a stone bench with a knife tip

Pete

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