Thread: Making Templates...what is the best wood to use?

I have used mdf, chipboard and ply. MDF is best as both ply and chipboard can 'chip'. If a bearing guided bit is then used to 'follow' the template it replicates these chipped out bits.

I also seal the edges of the mdf with a couple of quick coats of polyurethane so they last longer and don't absorb moisture.

Mdf is also very easy to shape with a bandsaw then belt sander.

Good luck with chairs!

SN

Hi Lateral and wellcome to the Forum.
When I have made patterns I have used Hardboard, as I recall the name in Oz is masonite ( the hard dark brown sheets that come in sheets 3/16 and 1/4in)
For me it is a lot more robust that MDF and Ply, it also leaves a nice finish when sanded on the edge for using on the router.

Peter

Birch ply if you can get it.

Price for price, I'll take MDF anytime. As Shannon said, cheap ply is prone to tear-out which doesn't make for the best template. Good ply is much better, but the price? [shudder]

three questions:

1.- how many times do you anticipate using the templates you are going to make?

2. - over what period of time?

3. - what quality of finish do i need?

once you have answered those questions the answer you want will be self-explanatory, bearing in mind the cost, durability and stability of available materials, not forgetting the other good advice posted earlier.

I'm very fond of sign board, which is a thick semitempered masonite type product, buy I use templates a lot & they cop a hammering.
almost anything thats flat and dimensionaly stable will be fine.
I and some of the others are thinking routers If you are just tracing well theres all sorts of stuff you can use.
heavy card, acrillic sheet......

cheers

I use MDF and coat the templates with polyurethane. I cut a master template from 3mm board, then a thicker working template from the master using the router bit with a bearing at the top. Only the working templates are used for patterns and when they wear out, I make new ones from the masters.

The only issue I have with using MDF is that it seems to get a bit of a rut where the router bit bearing pushes into it. Granted this only seems to happen first time the template is used, and it doesn't seem to get deeper.

Being so cheap, it is pretty easy to make a new template from the old one (or from a master one) when the current template in use gets too beaten up. (And then I reread what mkat just said and see that I have repeated him. Oh well, it must be good!)

Thanks Guys!

It looks like MDF wins!

Originally Posted by stuart_lees

The only issue I have with using MDF is that it seems to get a bit of a rut where the router bit bearing pushes into it. Granted this only seems to happen first time the template is used, and it doesn't seem to get deeper.

Stuart, this is a good point and one I neglected to mention. Now I haven't actually measured the rut on my templates and this may not be an issue in most applications, but it looks like it's less than 1mm. So, it will cause the cavity to be oversized by the size of the rut.

Gidday lateral

If I'm going to put energy into making templates I wanna make ones that are going to last for a long long time.

The few templates I have made outta MDF were frustrating to use cause I had this magnificant talent for dropping them and dinging them up way too much for reapated use.

If your going to make them outta MDF i reckon ya gotta go to the trouble of at least sealing them preferably in a long lasting durable finish. (More time & cost!!!!)

What works for me is perspex/plexiglass that is fully machinable durable and will last a hell of a lot longer than mdf etc etc ...........................expensive yes BUT much more durable hassle free and fool proof (which is a real advantage for an ohgron like me)

REgards Lou

Depending on the size, most times for patterns, I use Masonite when working directly against the wood. If I'm making patterns for the lathe duplicator, I typically use Lexan.

Paul

MDF and iron on white melamine edging so your router bearing wont dig in and distort.

Its tough and will last a long time and if it gets dammaged just peel it of and re iron some fresh stuff

Originally Posted by NewLou

What works for me is perspex/plexiglass that is fully machinable durable and will last a hell of a lot longer than mdf etc etc

spoken like a true 'ratter, Lou. i use the same for my set projects on the woodrat, but not sure if i would do the same for a limited use router table bearing or hand held bush guided template