Thread: Thicknesser and Green Timber

No nun what so ever. The thicknesser should be able to pull it through. If it sounds like bogging down then decrease the depth of cut.

Depends what type of thicknesser you’re going to use. If you’re using a 13” lunchbox thicknesser then scrupulously clean the tables, plattern and rollers and apply Silbergleit or paste wax to the sliding surfaces. If you’re using a more industrial machine that has rollers in the plattern adjust them so they sit prouder than normal and accept you’re going to get snipe. And clean/apply wax.

The above precautions are to reduce the timber getting stuck while being fed. Green timber contains sticky saps and resins that will drastically increase friction.

Carbatec 20” single phase with spiral


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Yep; I know that model. Put a spirit level on the plattern rollers and run it back and forth, if you can feel the level touching the plattern anywhere then raise those rollers up a smidge. I’d also still wax up the plattern just in case…

After you’ve finished you want to remove the dust chute and top cover and give the inserts a good scrubbing to to remove the build up of resin-impregnated chips and dust. Use a stiff nylon brush and a compressed air nozzle if you have one.

Originally Posted by Damienol

Carbatec 20” single phase with spiral

I have the same and have done full width plans on Jarrah at about a millimetre per pass so subject to your board width there should not be any issues.

Originally Posted by Damienol

... I have a mate that has some green spotted gum that he needs thicknessed from 38 - 30mm for a boat build. ...

Yep, it certainly can be done, but why? As the timber dries it will almost certainly surface check and move - twist or cup. Then it will have to be jointed and thicknessed again. Why not dry the timber first?

I work in the local Maritime Museum, and back in the 1800s when ships were made of wood and sailors of steel, down here spotted gum was the prefered timber for ship framing. Then Tasmanian blue gum for planking and celery top pine for decks and spars.

Shallow cuts and liberal use of a wax stick will see the job done, but I'll echo Graeme: Why? They won't stay flat...

No idea why. His boat, his requirement.

Just happy to help

He may be going to steam bend it so wants to work it green.
They did this at S G Whites at Ballina in the 70s on the wooden trawlers.
Dunno if they put it thru the thicky or just off the saw, I was in the Foundry Patternshop down the road from the slip.
H.

To be perfectly honest I would not put green timber through my thicknesser takes to days to clean it up, and if you let it dry on/in the machine you will have take a angle grinder to it