Thread: thicknessing help

Originally Posted by shanesmith80

Gday all,

I have a roughly 500mm x 500mm piece of Queensland maple 50mm thick with a fair twist in it and need it milled down to 35mm thick. I need one more piece to go with the table in this thread https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/wi...-table-166179/ , And the mighty router bit has nearly seen its day and I think the router is getting close too.

I am willing to pay in money/beer/food/anything.

Somewhere near the Bankstown/Liverpool is ideal but can travel.

Any help greatly appreciated.

ShaneS

If there is significant twist, the thicknesser may not be the tool as it only follows what is already there. Ideally a wide jointer is required to take the twist out. Then you can put it though the thicknesser to achieve your required thickness.

The other method that comes to mind is if there is somebody nearby who dresses slabs. They may have a machine to surface one or both faces. Without taking the twist out first there will be a lot of heartache for you.

Regards
Paul

Paul, your exactly right. I probably should have been more clear. It would need to have one side flattened first. Also thought that someone with a torque work centre or similar could do the job.

Originally Posted by shanesmith80

It would need to have one side flattened first. Also thought that someone with a torque work centre or similar could do the job.

Some mad man with scrub and #7 hand planes might be crazy enough to help too...

...or you can use a router ski, a very cheap and effective way to flatten a cupped, warped stick of timber.
Fun-box-2.jpg
Sure hope Harrysin doesn't mind me using his pic

Maybe Strathfield mens shed ?

Another option is to rip it in half, then use a jointer and thicknesser to dress each piece evenly then glue it back together. You can use my thicknesses/jointer if you like (310mm capacity) but tomorrow is the only day I could do it as I'm away over the weekend then moving house on Monday. Let me know if I can help.Andy

Originally Posted by groeneaj

Another option is to rip it in half, then use a jointer and thicknesser to dress each piece evenly then glue it back together. You can use my thicknesses/jointer if you like (310mm capacity) but tomorrow is the only day I could do it as I'm away over the weekend then moving house on Monday. Let me know if I can help.Andy

cheers Andy, I would prefer not to have to cut it but may be an option. Then at least it will fit through my thicky.

As most of you are more adventurous than me go the hand plane route.

I have done it this way and it works great.
Check out this thread

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/th...er-sled-17948/

There is also a video on the net somewhere if you do a search.
The guy in the video shows you how to set it up and planes a board as an example.

There are Mens Sheds in Granville and Liverpool and East Hills and Moorebank from the look of their website. Mens Sheds Men's Sheds AMSA Australian Men's Shed Asscociation One of them should be able to help. Felder have a shop in Emu Plains....

Thanks for all the advice. I ended up taking Andy's suggestion and cutting in half first. And after all that I have decided to change the design of the table as I think it was just going to look to chunky. think now I will do something like a Nakashima design. Just a matter of coming up with something that is not to similiar.

Originally Posted by shanesmith80

think now I will do something like a Nakashima design. Just a matter of coming up with something that is not to similiar.

Wasn't sure about Nakashima design so I had to turn to our friend. Google came up with this.

nakashima_table 2.jpgNakashima_ConoidBench.jpg

It also brought up Aline Nakashima, whom I thought might be the designer .

aline-nakashima.jpg

Then I found this bloke, George Nakashima.

George Nakashima.jpg

So now I'm debating which is the carpenter/designer and which one I would most like to sit with at one of these beautiful tables.

Regards
Paul

Tough choice??? Probably not

Behave yourself Paul or I shall forward this to your wife.