Thread: Restoration suggestions wanted

Are the runners on the side or does the bottom of the drawer run on the frame. I am unsure about bog. My plan would be thin strips of hardwood on the worn surface but the runner height would need to be adjusted the corresponding distance. Is there enough leeway on the drawer runners to do this. A picture would give me a better idea of how to go.

Regards
John

Hi Barry,

There's a filler the maintenance guys use here at work - it looks like plastic but you can drill and carve it with sharp tools - is kind of slippery - might fill the spot for you (pun intended). I can find out the name if you're interested - although you may have meant this by 'bog'.

Cheers,
Adam

G'day Barry,
I have used Plastibond filler For the same job you are about to undertake,
The first set of draws I did was about 10 years ago and are still sliding fine with no sign of wear.
Bunnies sell it.
Cheers

For that job I've used ordinary Spakfilla sealed with Shellac. You could tint it if you wanted it to be less visible.

Still going strong 25 years down the track.

Thanks Guys, you have come up with four v. useful suggestions and restored my faith in forum member's ingenuity.

Chumley, I would be interested in finding the name of the stuff your maintenance guys use, please.

Barry Hicks

Once you fix the runners, I would use plastibond, you could get some gloss laminate and cut it into thin strips on you table saw and contact it to the repaired runners and bottom of the draws. It makes them slide very easily and never wear out.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Robert

Barry

Doing repairs, I've fixed a number of drawers and runners that were worn over time. Usually I just make new runners that the drawers ride on. In the case of the drawer bottoms, most time I use new wood. I disassemble the drawer, cut off only as much as necessary to flatten the bottom edge, then glue on new wood and recut the drawer to side. Depending on how the drawer is constructed, you may have to hand cut a dovetail, a sliding lock joint etc but it's worked for me for years.

Good luck

Paul

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. Being basically lazy and mean, I am taking the easy one (RSSER's Spakfilla) because it is easier to work with and I already have the Spakfilla and shellac on hand.

Barry Hicks