Thread: timber cutting lube ?

AFAIK there's nothing that would fit that description. The best you can do is buy bits that come coated with TiN or TiAlN for longer life

For timber it would have to be a "dry" substance otherwise it would just soak into the wood, unless it was something like metho which evaporates away nice and quickly, but I doubt whether metho would do the job unfortunately. Go figure

I think what Elan says is about as fitting as it gets. TiN and likewise coating have a much lower coefficient of friction and the swarf and chips will slide away from the cutting edge easier and increase its life. There are a number of places around that will coat tooling with TiN and other coatings should you not be able to find a mass produced version.

ta. have never tried the stuff.

expensive ?

I keep a block of paraffin wax on the bench and rub it on the cutter. Also on screws and nails, it cuts the effort to put them by nearly half I reckon.

I've used candlewax on forstner bits to stop them overheating & jamming. Works well, but you won't be able to glue into the hole.

ta, I think your right...gota stick glue in there though...anyway.

Originally Posted by apricotripper

ta, I think your right...gota stick glue in there though...anyway.

Have you tried silicon lube spray? It does a pretty good job of lubing, and is receptive to cyanoacrylate glue (super glue).

I have used this on occasion without any problem, but would suggest that you try it on some scrap to see if it fits your criteria.

I have not used it with any other types of glue, although I doubt whether most of the more commonly used WW glues would hold.

Cheers

Originally Posted by wun4us

Have you tried silicon lube spray? It does a pretty good job of lubing, and is receptive to cyanoacrylate glue (super glue).

I have used this on occasion without any problem, but would suggest that you try it on some scrap to see if it fits your criteria.

I have not used it with any other types of glue, although I doubt whether most of the more commonly used WW glues would hold.

Cheers

That's very interesting about the CA and silicon. Until now I thought silicon wrecked everything and was to be kept away at all costs. I will give this a try next time.

The best advice I can offer is to clean everything very carefully after cutting. I guess you've probably noticed that once a little resin builds up, it starts to build up quicker. Less clearance and more heat bake more on and the buildup accelerates.

I'd like to hear any other suggestions. I get the impression that lubricants will either burn off, or leave a residue that will interfere with the glue. If you could find something that left a residue which was compatible with epoxy you might have something???

just found this: http://www.carbitool.com.au/pdf%27s/PageR059.pdf

thanks for the ideas.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

just found this: http://www.carbitool.com.au/pdf%27s/PageR059.pdf

opticut XL caught my eye. Thinking of buying a bottle of that and doing a few glueup tests.

ta.

I had a bottle of liquid I was sold for cutting aluminium, it also claimed it was good for cutting wood and almost anything.

It was a detergent bassed product and washed off aluminium with water.

Having read some threads of wood stabilisation using detergent in the past, it might be worth a look..seems select you detergent well and it gives no trouble with glues and finishes.

one thing about detergent is that it will be PH neutral unlike soap which can cause all sorts of problems with timber and fasteners.

its worth remembering most things that are sold to us as wonderfull products in fancy retail packs end up being relativly common simple items.

give a few household detregents a go on some test pieces.

Not at all keen on silicon......its the work of the devil....and the devil is a short bald man that wears a suit and carries an umberella.

HO HO OH........what about "Silver Glide".

cheers

Be careful with Silicone spray is it can mess up surfaces so they don't take some finishes.

FWIW I use many litres of bar oil and canola oils as bar and chain lube when milling timber and within a week the oils just seems to have evaporated away.

It seems to me that anything that swelled up the wood like water would generate bigger holes which when they dried would cause probs.

Originally Posted by soundman

its worth remembering most things that are sold to us as wonderfull products in fancy retail packs end up being relativly common simple items.

give a few household detregents a go on some test pieces.

thanks mate.

thanks Bob