Thread: Replacing veneer

You need what is called a "veneer punch". A veneer punch cuts out an irregular (i.e. not a circle, square etc) shaped piece of veneer and a matching place for the patch to go. The trick is then to be able to find a patching piece of veneer then refinish it to match.

As you observed, a lot of veneer that was used in the 19th century and almost certainly all veneer in the 18th century were sawn and therefore much thicker than can be sourced today from veneer suppliers. So you only need to find matching boards and resaw, thickness plane/sand ... You get the idea.

Restoration is more an art of the finisher than a branch of woodworking, per se. If these are valuable or rare antiques I would leave this to the professionals.

Originally Posted by markharrison

If these are valuable or rare antiques I would leave this to the professionals.

Wise words. Plus, where the hell would you get flame Mahogany from these days?

The way every day antiques are priced these days, you might as well buy furniture for the wood! The current trend for the 50's/60's (as in stark) retro look have crueled the antique market. Of course, fashion will change this again.

Originally Posted by markharrison

The way every day antiques are priced these days, you might as well buy furniture for the wood! The current trend for the 50's/60's (as in stark) retro look have crueled the antique market. Of course, fashion will change this again.

Hmm, maybe I'll have to start going to the Lawson's auctions next year.

For the furniture though, not to buy it and break it down for the wood. :eek:

Even when I was buying antiques in the early 90's, the wood could not have been bought for the auction value of the item. I bought a mahogany dining table (c 1850). Nothing special but the auction price was $4000 (thereabouts but I paid probably 8-10% above the market rate because of the particular table). This table has four panels in the top that are over 700 mm wide that do not have any joins! If you could buy the wood today (or then) I'm sure the wood would be more than what I paid for it.

To quickly duck back on to topic , I found a veneer punch source here : http://www.veneersystems.com/supplies_03.html

No affiliation yada, yada.

Thanks for your replies,
I think the carcass timber is oak, probed it a bit in a chip hole and it felt too hard to be pine. Could'nt see the grain for old glue and crap.
Does it sound worthwhile replacing the tops cause I doubt I will find matching veneer?
Where can one find information on veneering / inlay work?
Thinking I will get the pieces home and spend some time thinking about it.
Merry Christmas to you and yours.

Hard to say as it depends on your skill level and the "value" of the item. There is more than one definition of value, despite what accountants say. The first thing to consider before "restoring" an antique is to preserve as much of the patina of the item as possible.

I recommend taking the think time option. I expect that this is something that perhaps be discussed with a professional restorer and this is a decision that should not be taken hastily. Antiques are by definition "second hand" and are not meant to be in as-new condition. Doing nothing at all is a valid option.

If you have some pictures I would be interested to see them to get a little understanding of the value to you, monetary and/or sentimental.

I will see if I can get some pictures over the weekend. The table needs major work to the top to be useable, otherwise has no future antique or not. The rest of it however is in fairly good condition. I just have a soft spot for the pembroke style which is why I would like to restore it.