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  1. #1
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    Feb 2015
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    Default Translation Please...!

    I am interested in making the tenoning jig described on pp 52-59 of Issue 288 of FWW - April 2021.

    The design calls for a "pressure bar" with a shim to ensure a very snug fit of the jig over the TS's rip fence as shown in the exploded diagram on p.53.

    The shim's label in the diagram reads like gibberish and doesn't make sense, at least to me!

    Any translation will be gratefully received !!!!

    Cheers,
    Yvan

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Default Why Bother ???

    I would not bother, Yvan, as, in my opinion, that design is not one of FWW's best.

    It is little more than a tall fence or a vertical fence extension that could be used on a table saw, router table, or (with limitations) on a band saw.

    The problem is that it relies on absolute precision of construction:
    • If the fence face is not absolutely vertical, there is no easy method of correcting it,
    • If the "support block" is not absolutely vertical, there is no easy method of correcting it,
    • the "bridge" is unnecessarily heavy and not more rigid than a torsion box, and
    • I do not trust glued joints on end grain plywood or MDF.


    Yvan, I suggest you do a bit of googling; there are a lot of designs around, but I do not want to recommend one that I have not tried.


    PS: I agree about the shims. They seem to be applying pressure in the wrong direction.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Hi Graeme,

    Thanks for your views on the design.
    As I "only" have a contractor TS, I was already wondering if the bulkiness of the jig would affect the fence which is certainly not as hefty as that of a bigger TS.

    Will Google!

    Cheers,
    Yvan

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    blue mountains
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    Default

    Not having seen the FWW article in question I can't comment on it but tenon jigs in general are not really all that necessary. The shoulders can be cut on the tablesaw with just the mitergauge and a stop block or on a sled with a stop block. The cheeks can be done on the bandsaw just using the fence. There is also the humble tenon saw. Anything of a decent length becomes unwealdy stood upright on a tablesaw anyway and you often just don't have the headroon either.
    Regards
    John

  6. #5
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    Apr 2006
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by yvan View Post
    Hi Graeme,

    Thanks for your views on the design.

    As I "only" have a contractor TS, I was already wondering if the bulkiness of the jig would affect the fence which is certainly not as hefty as that of a bigger TS.

    Will Google!

    Cheers,
    Yvan

    Good question which I cannot answer....

    When you are googling, you might look at both:
    • supplementary tall fence like the FWW one, and
    • replacement fence that slots into your saw's T-track.


    The key question is always how you will develop your useage of your saw. You will always move on to stuff you have not yet thought about, and that is the really interesting bit.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    4,464

    Default

    Not having a bandsaw back then I bought a Cast iron tenon jig from McJing about 5 or more years ago. It was around $100 then. When cutting a lot of tenons in one go it’s fantastic as once set up the cuts are repeatable and dead accurate. I cut all the lengthwise cheek cuts in one go on the jig, then set up the table saw to remove the cheeks. Sure, it’s not the same as making your own ( and I love making jigs) and it’s now around $135, but it just works.

    Tenoning Jig

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