Thread: Unglue butcher block

Couple of pics might help

Steam.

If its as old as you say, it's likely to be hide glue. Steam will release it.

E

I don't beleive it would be hide glue if it is 40 years old, some type of water resistant glue my have been used as said above some good clear pics would help, in original old butcher blocks there was no glue used they were held together by heavy steel bands

would it be easier and quicker to run a saw through the glue join and start with a new clean edge?

Good Morning Bob

At 40 years of age, it could be at the dawning of the new glues. Lets try the older ones first:

• hide glue, boil or steam it. You will quickly get the characteristic "vegemite" smell with a little heating to confirm diagnosis.
• resourcinal, has a characteristic black glue line and typically begins to fail after 25 years or so. It is watertight so boiling/steaming probably will not work. A sharp rap may persuade it to let go, otherwise not sure what to do.
• epoxy. This melts with heat but probably difficult/impossible to get sufficient heat deep into the joints. Solvent, even for cured epoxy, is acetone or methyl ethyl ketone (MEK). You could apply either to the joints and keep them saturated and wait for penetration. Both are nasties so follow safety instructions.
• PVA & other glues, possibly a sharp rap may persuade it to let go, otherwise not sure what to do.

Personally, I would use resawing as a last resort as it will change the size of the pieces by the kerf of the blade. You will then have to resize every piece to get them to refit on re-assembly.


Good Luck and Fair Winds

Graeme

This old thread. Cool!

I actually did have a few scenarios recently where I had to pop glue joints.

6 different dining chairs, 3 tables (one ancient (un-id'd, but I suspect ash), one outdoor (pine), one indoor (kwila)), a pine tv cabinet modification and a multi-wood chop board.

I found that the commercial glues cames as either a) extreme crap, or b) Kung Fu strength. The rustic, or home made things, we're invariably very strong.

Evaluating the various glues I found that reliably and safely breaking them was impossible. If a reasonable percussive force (bash block and Thors hammer) didn't break them then there was no hope. Very selective and very careful near-reversable deconstruction was the answer.

Where I had no choice but to saw and as Graeme says, kerf is the key. I resorted to the trusty 0.25mm kerf Japanese saw. Specifically the Nakaya Eaks. This saw was recommended to me by master Shoji and kumiko maker Des King...Nakaya Dozuki. : Tools from Japan, Japanese woodworking tools direct from Japan.

Many couldn't be heated and none used animal hide glue, so the makers never envisaged repairs.... Btw, commercial chairs are HOPELESS. The glue in them is so bad as to be criminal.

(context I enjoy repairing furniture, I'm an keen enthusiast, not a pro)

PogoBob was a temporary guest, not a member, and this thread is over 4 months old, so you're probably banging your heads against the wall. Another reconsituted dead thread.