Thread: Using old hand-brace auger bits in 3-jaw chuck?

Buy a brace

what, HAND tools? Ughh. No seriously, I've got to drill in from both ends, 180mm in from each end, I'm not going to drill straight enough to get the holes to meet in the middle.

If you dont need the length, just cut off the square end. Run drill at low speed, or you will be in for the ride of your life.

Originally Posted by rustynail

If you dont need the length, just cut off theto fix the broken bones square end. Run drill at low speed, or you will be in for the ride of your life.

Ain't that the truth!

Maybe even to hospital to fix the broken bones

Very risky!!First, the bit has a screw thread cut into the bit designed(of course) to pull the bit into the timber. Here is problem one. You will have to have a bloody slow drilling machine to match the thread speed of the bit. Problem two. The steel in the bit is not made for machine drilling and will most probably break with the forces generated. After all the bit is a hand tool bit and not made to do any more than what force you can manage with a brace.
"OK" I hear you say, I'll file away the thread and just have a point to lead the bit into the timber. You will need an awful lot of force to push the bit into the timber
Oh the bit you have in mind....is it a hardwood bit or a softwood bit? Yes there is a difference. And a difference in performance when used in a brace.
No I would not even attempt the boring job. I would buy the appropriate drill bit for the job and leave great grandpas bits for the brace using manual hand power
Whats the difference between the hardwood bit and the softwood bit? The softwood bit has 2 "wings" formed on both sides of the cutting end to score the fibres so when the straight cutting surface comes in contact with the timber you end up with a cleaner cut. The hard wood bit does not have the wings because you need a bit more grunt to cut the hardwood and it doesn't tend to tear like the softwood would without the wings
Call me old fashioned, but I would preserve grand dads bits for future generations

Was thinking of slowest spindle speed and pecking/clearing rather than just pressing down and going for it. But you think the auger bit is likely to grab badly on the work anyway? I don't think I can clamp the timber positively rigid, it's too big for any clamping device I've got, unless I bolt it up to a restraining frame with big hex-head screws or something.

Oh, here's another reply from chambezio while I've been writing

I'm with chambezio

Originally Posted by Gunnaduit

Was thinking of slowest spindle speed and pecking/clearing rather than just pressing down and going for it. But you think the auger bit is likely to grab badly on the work anyway? I don't think I can clamp the timber positively rigid, it's too big for any clamping device I've got, unless I bolt it up to a restraining frame with big hex-head screws or something.

Oh, here's another reply from chambezio while I've been writing

I have a vision of you spinning in one direction and the work spinning in the other ...... and it's not a pretty sight.

I'm going to drop the old auger bit idea.

The timber is an 8" x 4" lump of hardwood wharf beam, an offcut from some recent Sydney Harbour public works; tough, dense, grain looks stringy and close, almost like bamboo flooring.

I'm about to make the crossbeam that will tenon into two end beams of the same stuff (like an H), to be a raising frame that will go under my pedestal drill (I'm taller than the average Chinese). Wanted to put a threaded rod (two, if I can bore it easily) through all three pieces to pull it all together and make it heavy and solid. Just got to bore the crossbeam end to end, 360mm.

So, when I go to the shop, what's the right kind auger to get for this?

(p.s. I can't do the alternative, a wedged tenon either end, since the crossbeam timber piece that I have left over isn't long enough for through-tenons)

Speed is the issue here. It makes little difference wether you are the driving force or a drill press. Provided the speed is the same in each case the outcome would be the same. I did my first trade as a coach builder, augers were used on a regular basis and remodelled for power tool use. The important thing was to remember the power tool was to make the task less physically demanding, not quicker. The old auger bits were of good quality steel and consistant. More than can be said for some of the crap we are dished up today. Look how long the old augers held their edge. If you do decide to throw caution to the wind just be mindfull that you are working with hardwood and require a hardwood bit. Spurs are not the only difference between soft and hardwood augers. The most important difference to you is the pitch of thread on the pilot worm. A softwood bit has a very long pitch. The harwood bit has a much tighter or smaller pitch. The latter wont have the same amount of grab as the former. Remember, its walking pace here.

It turns out from your descriptions that the set of brace augers are for softwood (2 cutting lips, fairly coarse centre thread).

So I'm thinking of getting a new auger bit - I'll use it for a couple of other things too.

I just did a ring around my local suppliers, I can get the types/brands below (links). Which is best for a pedestal drill do you think (1 HP, lowest speed 195rpm), given the work in hardwood I'll do? After the concerns raise above, I want safety.

Power Drill I-100 Auger Bits - Tools - IRWIN TOOLS

Scotch Pattern Augers - Tools - IRWIN TOOLS

http://www.promac.com.au/products/wo...d-wood-augers/

Tungsten Carbide Tipped Auger Bits : CARBA-TEC

Might be the devil or the deep blue sea here!

I would favour the the first Irwin link, but they are only 4 1/2 inches long.
2nd Irwin doesn't list the auger size,
Promac and Carbatec are both 450mm long.

Maybe then either of the last 2 would suit, but I'd go for the Promac.

Long bits for a power tool though IMHO

Thanks wun4us, I checked the retailer, those Irwin Power Drill I-100 bits come in three lengths, as it turns out, and medium length is 280mm, which is about right for my use.
They're on the other side of town, I'm down that way in the next couple of days, I'll buy then and conclude this post with, I hope, a good story of how it worked.
Good thing I checked my original (bad) idea out on this forum, aye?

Promac