Thread: How to do veneering

Originally Posted by Dengue

Thanks Peter, but cannot locate it. Where did you see it?

Here is the link to his sale.


The book is "The veneering book – Square by David Shath" for $10 and is the classic Tauntons book on the subject.


Peter.

Thanks again, Peter, very much appreciated. What a helpful forum this is !!

Have told Tiger I will buy it. Had another go at finding it without your link weith searches and everythjing - finally found it in Woodwork Tools and Machinery, in a thread called Metal Working, Woodworking , DIY.

Without your help I would never have found that book . Many thanks

Originally Posted by safari

Hi John, I have an old Woodman 14" bandsaw that's been sitting in the corner of the shed for some time. It needs a bit of work to get it back to scratch and I was hoping you could tell me what was the make of blade guides you brought and also the type of blade you use for resawing.

Thanks

Safari,

I bought the guides/bearings from CarbaTec, they are the units that their machines use. I needed to put in a spacer to align the bearings, and used a piece of ply as a temporary measure ... a year ago.
IMAG0411[1].jpg

It worked well ... I now have guides that work.

The blade is also from CarbaTec. It has 4 TPI, which is the lowest tooth count I could get. I now have no trouble re-sawing boards about 150 -160 mm deep. I lost about 10-15 mm in depth of cut with the new guides, but that loss was nothing compared to the improvement in blade control.

I find Henry Bros excellent for bandsaw blades. Recently ordered a 3/4" 1.25 tpi ( pitch) bimetal blade for $55.

Thanks John, I am going to Carbatec sometime this week so I will see what I can come up with.

Originally Posted by ian

Hi John

some species are more porous along the grain than others -- this affects how much finish fills the pores

finish technique is most likely a combination of pore fillers and shellac -- done "right" the pores will fill without discolouration.

Ian,

From the first job I did I noted that the finished (lacquer) end grain tended to be darker than the long grain (say, on a table top). Can you help me understand how to prevent that?

Cheerio!

John

Hi John ,

The end grain absorption problem can be fixed in two ways I know of , one way is sealing with shellac the end grain bits you want to keep light.
Test first and see if you get results that work with the shellac method , if the results are good then this is the easiest way to go.
I do a fair bit of french polishing with shellac and when ever I have to fix this problem I never use shellac method.

I much prefer a glue size mix , I think it seals and keeps things lighter in colour when I need it to be . There is, I think , more of a range to its use.
A desert spoon full of white PVA in a tea cup of warm water is a glue size mix , or a similar amount of Hide Glue in the same amount of water. you have to play and test on scrap. Not sealed enough add more glue.
Glue size is a water treatment so you will need to wet, raise the grain, and then sand first possibly , and if the timber is high in tanic acids you might get oxide stains , grey to black shades or spots, in which case oxalic acid is needed.

Hope this helps . you got my curiosity up with the comment on the piece you saw in an antique shop.

When you said
"Some years ago I was in an antique store in New Orleans. They had a beautiful cabinet that was veneered in end grain. The veneers (about 25 mm X 40 mm) were arranged in a square pattern so the grain radiated out from the centre of each "box" of four pieces.

It was one of those pieces that about takes your breath away. "

How old was it ? 18th century 19 th century or not that old.
The English were doing some amazing veneer work around the 1680s to ? 1720s not sure when or if they stopped then .
Oyster veneered cabinets and chests in lignum Vitae and Walnut.

Wow!! the good old days,




Rob

Originally Posted by auscab

"It was one of those pieces that about takes your breath away. "

How old was it ? 18th century 19 th century or not that old.
The English were doing some amazing veneer work around the 1680s to ? 1720s not sure when or if they stopped then .
Oyster veneered cabinets and chests in lignum Vitae and Walnut.

Wow!! the good old days,

Rob,

It was a bit like this pic, with longer legs, and instead of ornate carving, it had inlay highlights. I think it had a single drawer and doors under this. I don't think it was walnut ... more like mahogany ... but not sure.


Thanks for the info on glue size. I'll definitely try that.

Cheerio!

John