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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Tasmania
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    Default Cleaning up reclaimed timber.

    Hey all,

    Not sure if this is the right section for this but here goes. I've managed to reclaim a whole heap of celery top pine and a few nice lengths of Huon pine from a house we've been renovation. Now I've got a project in mind for it however it's has all been painted white on one side, just thinking about the best way to clean it up, run it over our workshop buzzer one arvo, or just use the electric hand plane? Thoughts?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Katoomba NSW
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    4,774

    Default

    The workshop buzzer would be faster but paint can be hard on knives. There may be nail heads hidden under the paint too.
    Use a good mask as old paint may be lead based.
    A big belt sander would be good but make a lot more dust
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Tasmania
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    44

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    Yeah the lining boards are a ship lapped pattern and I've slowly been de nailing and dressing on the tablesaw, finishing up with about 75 x 22mm, I thought the same thing about it being hard on the buzzer blades. I do have a belt sander but thought it'd be to slow and haphazard?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    lower eyre peninsular
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    3,584

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ando967 View Post
    , I thought the same thing about it being hard on the buzzer blades. I do have a belt sander but thought it'd be to slow and haphazard?
    welcome to the REAL world of recycling
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    It will kill the buzzer blades and stop working before your finished , same with a hand plane , same with sand paper. The only way is to strip the paint off first. Heat gun and scrape ,then a stripping soloution or dip it . or pay some one to strip it . A high pressure cleaner might take it off but they can chew up wood as well.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
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    I've used an electric hand planer to skim off the paint layer. Mine is a cheapy and has those replaceable tungsten carbide blades. I bought a card of spares for replacements but so far I'm still on the originals and I've done a lot of metres of both hard and softwoods (Ironbark and Oregon).

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Tasmania
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    Hmmm might go down the leccy plane road and maybe see how the belt sander goes, the joiners might be a bit when they go to use the buzzer again!

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
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    68
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    9,417

    Default

    couple of goes with paint stripper then through the thicknesser
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Armadale
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    I've never understood why people try to sand off paint? Go the paint stripper!!. you may find that's all it needs .

    If this was old timber it was prolly painted straight over shellac and the paint wont have penetrated the grain. if you sand it off or use a thiknesser you'll probably make more work for yourself getting back a perfectly prepared surface. my 2c

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    Brisbane
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    Apart from the wear and tear issues, my problem with the thichnesser is how much material you will loose.

    If you don't mind the paint stripper, that is a go.

    As for the belt sander........don't dis the belt sander.....a well tuned belt sander can be a very good thing capable of fine work......the problem is most people only see belt sanders used as butchery tools and don't know how to tune them.

    Get the platten properly flat, a graphite slip cloth, a good quality belt and hooked up to dust extraction and they can do quite fine delicate work, an excelent choice for working on boards.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Yangebup, Perth
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    I also use the Electric plane to remove paint and find hidden nails. Still on origional blades after about 5 years
    The world is a comedy to those that think, a tragedy to those that feel.

  13. #12
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    May 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by astrid View Post
    I've never understood why people try to sand off paint? Go the paint stripper!!. you may find that's all it needs .
    I think it is a matter of horses for courses. In my case I have used the planer on painted rough sawn timber that was going to be further resawn to get final material. It is also very quick.

    I have always found paint stripper too messy and irritating on anything large. If I need to preserve size and final shape and am willing to invest the time, I have found stripping with a heat gun is easier. An electric heat gun will be less likely to burn but a gas gun is quicker.

    Also if stripping I find it incredibly easier if I sharpen the scraper occasionally.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
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    A hand held electric plane will do a good job of geting the paint off. Use some dust extraction and ware a mask. Look at the reverse side of the board to get an idea of where nails may be and punch out as required. The replacement blades are not too expensive but I have found they usually last for years. My electric plane is mostly used to clean up old timber.
    Regards
    John

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Tasmania
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    Ran the first 3 up this arvo with the planer and it came up a treat, set it to about 0.5mm and gave it a nice slow pass, needed a follow up to remove some ingrained paint. Thanks for the tips all. I'm not a big fan of stripper after I restored and old captains chair with it, a few pieces of sand paper and two weeks of spare time! it has its place but I'd rather exhaust other options first!

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