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Thread: veneering help please
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8th May 2006, 04:35 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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veneering help please
did i spell veneer right ?
ok, never done veneering before, i want to use high end stuff not the iron on stuff from the hardware (or is that good) will go over a mdf base...for a contempory coffee table or maybe some speakers...
where and what do i need to look for when getting the veneer, and do i just glue it on with contact addhesive...
also, what sort of router bit do i need for the trimming, to get the professional look...
i have tools but not knowledge...:confused:
la HHurry, slowly
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8th May 2006, 07:19 PM #2
There are lots of experts on veneering here (of which group I am not yet one), however, I've used a fair bit and prefer the paper-backed type.
The clamping is the key to success in many ways, but for small items some newspaper and some cauls work ok.
For glue, I've used hide glue (has worked well for me on some shop band-saw cut veneer - see http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...+table+red+gum), PVA with some success and some failures (bubbles!) and contact adhesive. With the latter, I've found the wet application method best, even if curing takes upwards of 24 hours.
For edge trimming, I just use a craft knife to trim close to the finished dimensions, then a sharp block plane. That's the easy bit Also, I like to have a moulding or such cover the substrate/veneer edge. Edge trimming is tricky to get right without the (very) exy kit pros use.
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10th May 2006, 02:30 PM #3
Contact cement will work well for most types of paper backed veneer. The only veneer that I ever have problems using contact cement on is Maple. I dunno why.
All you need for trimming the veneer is a trim router with a carbide tipped flush trim router bit. Make sure you go backwards (right to left) across end grain and if you have problems with chipping, try putting masking tape across the face of the veneer and that should take care of it.
MDF is the best of the available substrates for bonding veneer to. Just make sure you coat both the veneer and the mdf with the contact cement and give it enough breathing time to not get gases trapped between the veneer and the MDF or it will produce gas bubbles under the veneer.In the beginning the Universe was created.
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10th May 2006, 11:42 PM #4Member
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Now here's a little secret. Some standard woodworking glues are thermoscopic, that is, can be activated by application of heat. Titebond aliphatic resin ('Original') is one. The benefit ? Well, without sophisicated press facilities you can apply a thin coating of glue to both surfaces and allow the glue to dry. Then with a hot iron ('linen') you can iron on the veneer to the substrate. Instant bond. No press required. If you do have a press, and vacuum presses are now available very inexpensively, then you can use the same glue or even Titebond liquid hide glue (for a 'future remedial' option) and press the veneer in the vac press. If the surfaces are flat, then you can make up a press really easily with sheets of panel and some clamps. Don't forget to apply a veneer to the backside of your workpiece to even up the stresses and avoid warping.
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11th May 2006, 01:31 PM #5
L Ha - here's my method using 1.5mm veneered ply,
http://www.greenie512.net/greenie512...veneering.htmlFantastic cheese Grommit!!
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