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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    devon
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    72

    Default Veneering large tight curve

    Hi.

    My current project involves veneering onto a curve with a circumference of almost 1000mm and a diameter of around about 350mm. The veneer I am using is some very curly bubinga. I have tried gluing by hand with animal glue and found that as soon as moisture touches the veneer it curls up in every direction due to the grain and leaves massive air bubbles in the surface, I have also found that the edges do not seems to stick very well and tend to peel away. Does anyone know how I could do this and achieve a perfectly flat veneered surface with no edges pulling?

    I should mention that people have suggested a vacuum bag but the curve is to tight for this and it goes around further than a semi-circle which as far as i'm aware would create difficulties for a vacuum bag.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am rapidly losing patience with it

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
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    9,542

    Default

    I wouldn't see any problems with a vacuum bag handling a tight radius. It's the best way of applying even pressure.
    I haven't laminated bubinga, but the usual way to handle curly grain is to spray the other side of the veneer with water. Alternatively, you could use a 2 pack epoxy, which doesn't seem to cause the same curling.
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  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    5,271

    Default

    Is the veneer perfectly flat and supple before you begin? I haven't tried curly Bubinga, but I don't imagine it behaves any different to burr Elm, Yew, Ash etc. If you apply animal glue to both sides of the veneer, then it should hammer down easily enough.

    Another option is to size both the ground and the veneer and let the glue dry. Then you can position the veneer and secure it with pins or tape and then apply a sheet of hot tin to the veneer which will reactivate the glue. If you place the groundwork in a large box, you can also heap hot sand onto the tin to ensure 100% contact, or even cover the veneer/ground with polythene and heap hot sand onto that.

    There are many ways of doing it, it's just a case of selecting the one best suited to the job in hand.
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  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ft. Myers, Fl
    Posts
    84

    Default bubinga

    Bubinga can be a bitch to work. It cracks, splits, warps, twists and moves all by itself.
    It will bend around a drum if the grain is vertical but it will fight you if you try to bend it the other direction.
    Any water based glue will not work. period. That leaves epoxy and the plastic glues that need humidity to cure and will foam up horribly under veneer. Epoxy will eat your lunch on that big a surface.
    What most people do not know is that contact cement will work well in this case. It has plenty of strength if you let it set a few hours. If you make a mistake with CC you can use lacquer thinner to break the bond, straighten the panel, reglue and go on.
    Lay the venier out flat on a clean table with the finish side down, put the frame on top of it and roll it back and forth until you have it aligned correctly. Then glue the venier and let it dry. Glue the first section of th drum that will contact the venier. let it dry. Slowly roll the drum over the venier. Jury rig a clamp to catch the edge of the venier, even if you have to screw a caul to the drum. Later, if the edge of the venier lifts up, you can clean the joint and epoxy it down.
    Take your time, use lots of rubbing and hammering, get it down flat and leave it alone.
    Even if you are very good, you will get bubbles, cut a slit with the grain with a razor blade, press it down with a warm iron, the CC should reset. If not, press ( and trim if necessary) to get it flat and use some epoxy on it.
    Hope this helps
    Joe

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    NSW southern Highlands
    Posts
    548

    Default

    I have not had the need to try laying wayward veneers, but have seen others make up a solution containing water, Glycerin & ??, to use on flattening & softening veneers before laying, with success.

    You may find this helpful -

    Flattening a Veneer with Veneer Softener

    Regards

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Myaree
    Posts
    3

    Default Water...

    Hi guys, timber and veneer are hydrophile, to avoid waving, use anything but waterbased solutions. I use epoxy as well and in the vacuum press, it gives you the best results, no possible air pockets or bubbles. Just take some precautions to avoid the resin to go through the veneer, I pre seal the face before gluing...

    Xylo.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Central Coast
    Age
    33
    Posts
    372

    Default

    Air bag should work fine. I'd suggest a caul to go over the veneer, just to help ensure even pressure, I generally just use 3mm MDF with packing tape on one face (prevent glue sticking).

    How thick are the veneers?
    Buy the best tools you can afford and you'll only cry once...

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