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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Default Veneering - Making a Vacuum Press

    My latest project involves a desk top consisting of Hoop Pine with a band of Kauri, all of which is framed with Silky Oak. The design allows no room for movement, so the plan is to veneer marine ply with 2.5mm of Hoop Pine. The top layer of commercial Hoop Pine ply is just too thin.

    A vac bag around 1200 x 800 was needed to fit the top. I found a two-man company who make tarps for trucks. They were happy to use their offcuts to make the size I needed, plus a small one which I wanted, in 0.5mm PVC for a total cost of $40. The welds are about 40mm wide around all three sides. Way cheaper than the internet traders.

    The vac outlet consisted of a length of ¾” threaded brass pipe, two wide rubber cistern seals and a large metal washer and nut on each side of the bag.

    Vacuum bag valve.jpg

    A refrigeration pump was bought online for about $200 and another quick connect air fitting added via a female/female adapter and a reducer to fit the quick connect fitting.

    To provide a flat surface for the veneer and allow the air to escape, I used 19mm MDF and cut channels lengthwise and across with a circular saw. Some of the cuts were kerf wide and others two and three times that width. This gave me a visual indication of the pressure inside without needing a vacuum gauge. The wide cuts were the first to go concave under vacuum and the narrowest only revealed themselves when maximum vacuum was reached.

    Vaccum bag in action.jpg


    To seal the open end, I tacked strips of rubber from Bunnings onto two lengths of Western Red Cedar and clamped the folded open end of the bag between them.

    Vacuum bag seals.jpg

    To be continued...

    mick

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Elizabeth Bay / Oberon NSW
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    Default

    Right! No questions or suggestions so far, so we can move on...

    First Tests

    A spare stick of Blackwood was cut into 3mm strips 60mm wide on the Laguna 14 bandsaw using my scary re-saw blade. I bunched and taped them together and ran both edges across the jointer which seems to work OK. I still wonder if a low angle smoothing plane or even a scraper might result in even better butt joints.

    The strips were laid out on the bench face side up and pushed together before taping along each join. A second pair of hands would have been useful here.

    Strips laid out for edge glueing.jpg

    The resulting mat was the laid onto a convex surface rough side up to open the joints and Titebond 3 applied. Then the surface was covered with cling wrap before allowing it to dry under vacuum.

    I found a spare panel of 4mm plywood and used a small foam rubber roller to apply glue to both the substrate and veneer in that order. I’ve since changed to a nylon paint brush because the loaded roller tended to slip rather than roll. This isn’t the time to muck around because I since discovered that some other timbers cup quite quickly when the glue is applied.

    Test veneer under vacuum.jpg


    After an overnight stay in the vac bag, the panel was trimmed up to this:

    Test veneer.jpg Edge view veneer onto 4mm ply.jpg


    Lessons learned the hard way

    With the sea trials completed, it was time to go live with my Hoop Pine desk top onto 13mm ply. I cut veneers 195mm wide and discovered that despite taking the utmost care, the wider the cut, the harder it was to achieve an even thickness across the width. Using double sided adhesive “spots” I fixed the wonky veneers to a flat plank and ran them through the thicknesser.


    The mat was then glued up and laid into a sheet of ply which was 150mm larger than the mat on all sides. Big mistake! The mat moved a bit on the ply when they were being inserted into the bag. After it came out, I had to make a special fence for the table saw which registered onto the edge of the veneer to square things up again. Now I make sure that the mat fits the ply exactly and I use masking tape around the edges to keep everything square. Cling wrap is wrapped around the edges to catch any squeeze out. BTW, the end of the masking tape is turned back on itself because It sticks like anything after vacuum treatment.

    Hoop Pine veneer taped for edge glueing.jpg Veneered Hoop Pine panel.jpg


    During the early tests of the system, I had to re-apply the vacuum every 30 minutes to keep it at max. It looked like the air was entering through the vacuum pump so I added a half inch ball valve into the line. It’s still only good for a couple of hours but a perfect seal is just not worth chasing.


    Having spent a lot over the years working with solid wood, being able to make my own veneers will not only save money but expand design possibilities for future projects. It's great to add a new skill and equipment which broadens capabilities.

    mick

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
    Posts
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    Default

    Good and helpful post. I would like to do some veneering some time in the future and I’ll refer back to your post.

    Leigh


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  5. #4
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    I forgot to mention

    When I first hooked up and turned on the pump:

    The bag started to collapse and then suddenly stopped before the pump started making funny noises. What’s going wrong? Maybe the pump’s a dud. That night I worked it out over a glass of red as an aid to clear thought. Quick connect fittings have a non-return valve and are designed for positive pressure, not negative. The guts of the female fittings include a tiny spring-loaded metal disc which seal against a rubber washer under pressure up the line. So, into the bin went the discs and voila! I was no longer working against myself. The bag collapsed and revealed every saw cut clearly.

    Better you know now...

    mick

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
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    Can you let us know which pump you went with Mick. There are so many out there, especially on eBay.

    i need to start putting my kit together.

    Cheers
    shane

  7. #6
    Join Date
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    G'day Shane, long time no see.

    There isn't a brand name on the pump or in anything which came with it.

    The label on its side reads:

    2 Stage Vacuum Pump
    Model VP215N
    Free air displacement 1.8 cfm
    Ultimate vacuum 15 microns (0.00029 psi) (That's a big claim)
    Power 1/4 HP

    The pump came with spare oil and a case of gauges, hoses and fittings, none of which I've used. The following photos might be helpful when you go searching online. It must be a year since I bought it so I can't remember much detail.

    Vac Pump 1.jpg Vac Pump 2.jpg Vac pump accessories.jpg

    I'll be interested to hear how you go.

    mick

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Elizabeth Bay / Oberon NSW
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    Default

    This looks like it from HVAC. It sounds like the outfit where it was bought.

    https://hvacdirect.com.au/130-l-min-refrigeration-vacuum-pump-2-stage/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIupK5qdiC6QIVmnwrCh2ujQvxEAYYBSABEgK_o_D_BwE

    mick

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