Thread: Can you wash belt sander belts ?

Hi Jake
The Hermes sandpaper seems really waterproof(maybe you use that). If your thong doesn't fix it why dontchya take the belt to one of those high pressure cleaners at a car wash. Or even the garden hose if you have good pressure in your water.

If its melted and resolidified plastic paint then you will need a paint striper. If thong doesn't work I try PVC conduit as this gets out some stuff than thong doesn't.

Dust extraction goes a very long way in preventing cloging. As for washing well give it a go as there is nothing to loose.
Regards
John

I had a brand new belt clag in seconds with a sappy pine. Super happy plus 10.

The Big Eraser didn't move it so I sprayed it with the CMT blade cleaner I use for the table saw. Let it do it's magic for a bit....

Off it came with a blat of the eraser! Huzzah!

The other thing I found helps sometimes is reversing the belt and then try cleaning it.

thanks for the suggestions. ta.

I haven't tried any of those ideas before. I'll try the PVC pipe idea first…. since it'll be the cheapest/easiest attempt. Give the thong a mate.

and if that doesn't work I'll try the other ideas…...go from there. thanks guys.

Originally Posted by BobL

The other thing I found helps sometimes is reversing the belt and then try cleaning it.

Have tried that one though….

still like the idea of building up say a dozern clogged belts over a few years then stick them in some kinda wonder clean detergent ….sit them over night….pull them out sparkling like in the ads….then just peg them on the cloths line to dry, brand new.

Its the fine grit belts that clog up fastest eh.

If its wood resin, then caffeine is a good softener for wood resin.
Seriously - I've even tried soaking resin covered chainsaw chains in strong coffee and it does work
Caustic also works but it might also play havoc with the fabric.

Hi All,
Some time ago, I was told, when you put a New Belt on, first thing you do is to clean it with the Grissle Rubber Block, 30 x 30 x 200mm. & then when in use, clean them regularly, even as you are working with them.
To clean those 1220 x 150mm. belts, the High Pressure Washer is the best I know of.

thanks.

I fire up the air compressor and turn the pressure up to 600psi or more. Depending on how much time spent and the build up in the grit, the air blasts them resonable clean.

Originally Posted by rod1949

I fire up the air compressor and turn the pressure up to 600psi or more. Depending on how much time spent and the build up in the grit, the air blasts them resonable clean.

600psi ????

Yep a bit high... lets try 60 then.

My observations are based only upon wood workers, hiking stick makers, who may be sanding for 30 days in a row! A month to do 50 or more hiking sticks in a batch. They change sanding drums, etc about once a year.

They taught me.

Your probable error is that you waited far, far too long as the belt jammed up. You pushed it, the friction went up and you cooked it.

As soon as the belt/drum colors up, time for the crepe rubber stick to clean it.
The minute that you push harder = the friction goes up, the heat goes up and you cooked it.

I like to use abalone shell inlay in many of my wood carvings. I cut and carve those pieces with stones and sanding drums. Shell dust is far worse than wood dust to bung up an abrasive.

But, just as soon as a stone/drum goes white, kiss it a few times with the crepe rubber and keep carving.

Without that, I would not and could not afford to include shell and slate stone inlay in my carvings. Each simple 1" eye in a Raven would have cost me $200 - 300 in stones and drums.

Possibly $2 per year?