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  1. #1
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    Default Is there a weather-proof wax?

    Our Cypress pine balcony hand rail is finished with Feast and Watson Weatherproof PU varnish, but still cracks and peels after a year or two.
    It is not in direct sunlight for more than half an hour in the morning, and only occasionally gets rain on it.
    Any suggestions for an oil or wax that will make it more durable, or should I try another finish altogether?

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  3. #2
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    RE: Is there a weatherproof wax (clear finish of any kind)
    Nope - and that's why people use paint.

    1/2 hour of direct sunlight is only part of the problem. Indirect sunlight can cause just a many problems but it just takes longer.

  4. #3
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    If you're willing to do a lot of work, you could use a 2 pack ployurethane top coat meant for boats (like Aquacoat). But you'll have to do 6 coats which is a lot of work and a lot of poly. And don't forget the surface prep. It will/should last 5+ years though.

    Or you could oil it every year. Advantage of oiling would be no need for sanding back any peeling/cracked finish. Just pressure wash with deck cleaner and put two coats of oil on and call it done for the next 6 months to a year depending on how keen you are.

  5. #4
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    Default

    What's the best oil?

  6. #5
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    Don't know if there is a 'best oil' but I used to use Cabot's Decking Oil. After about 8 months it wood look pretty ordinary but it was a pressure wash, do two coats in the morning, and be done for another 8 months kind of deal.

  7. #6
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    I checked my tin of Cabot's decking oil and it says for bare timber only "not to be used on painted surfaces"
    Are you sure it won't ruin my varnish?!

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alkahestic View Post
    If you're willing to do a lot of work, you could use a 2 pack ployurethane top coat meant for boats (like Aquacoat). But you'll have to do 6 coats which is a lot of work and a lot of poly. And don't forget the surface prep. It will/should last 5+ years though. ...
    Wattyl Estapol Marine Clear is almost as good as the two-pots, and easier to apply.
    http://www.wattyl.co.nz/en/find-the-...l?preview=true

    The enemy in all cases is UV. After its service life oof perhaps 5 years, it fails from the inside outwards; at the bond with the timber it goes cloudy and peals off. Then you must strip it back to bare timber and start again.

    Many yachties have varnish. Some prefer the big job every five years; others prefer virtually continuous small jobs. Having done both, my guess is that the overall work load is about the same.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonP View Post
    I checked my tin of Cabot's decking oil and it says for bare timber only "not to be used on painted surfaces"
    Are you sure it won't ruin my varnish?!
    Using any kind of oil will mean stripping all off the old varnish/poly off. Most other film forming finishes like poly will need all of the cracked peeling/areas to be removed and the sound areas to be scuff sanded to give the new coating something to adhere to.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alkahestic View Post
    Using any kind of oil will mean stripping all off the old varnish/poly off. Most other film forming finishes like poly will need all of the cracked peeling/areas to be removed and the sound areas to be scuff sanded to give the new coating something to adhere to.

    Essentially agree, but do not think it is enough for a clear finish.

    My view is that you must go back to clean wood all over and sand to 200 grit to get rid of all visible blemishes. The clear, high gloss finish will really accentuate any small blemish and be highly visible.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Essentially agree, but do not think it is enough for a clear finish.

    My view is that you must go back to clean wood all over and sand to 200 grit to get rid of all visible blemishes. The clear, high gloss finish will really accentuate any small blemish and be highly visible.

    I can't argue with that, one more reason I've been trying to shift away from film finishes.

  12. #11
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    bugga, that has been the most depressing post Ive ever read and I didnt even start if. decisions decisions now which way do I go.
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

  13. #12
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    I have used Sikkens Cetol on the exterior side of windows with excellent results.

    Sikkens's website covers the properties and uses of their various products, interior and exterior.

    Cheers,
    Yvan

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by yvan View Post
    I have used Sikkens Cetol on the exterior side of windows with excellent results.

    Sikkens's website covers the properties and uses of their various products, interior and exterior.

    Cheers,
    Yvan
    Is that over the top of new varnish?
    I'm really after something that will add to the life of varnish I've just applied to new wood.
    I don't want to strip it off and start with bare wood.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by yvan View Post
    I have used Sikkens Cetol on the exterior side of windows with excellent results. ...
    I have also used Sikkens Cetol, but stopped using it in favour of Estapol Marine Clear. The Cetol had excellent UV resistance, possibly marginally better than Estapol. But it dried to a very soft finish which caused problems on a boat
    • Halyard slap on the mast eroded it very quickly,
    • Human contact on cockpit coamings also caused quick erosion.


    But great UV resistance.

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