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Thread: wetting a slab to raise grain
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24th March 2009, 08:37 PM #1
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wetting a slab to raise grain
Evening All
I'm at a point where I have been sanding my red gum slab quite smooth, but remember somewhere about wetting the timber down with a sponge so that the surface wood expands the grain, let it dry and then sand level. Has anyone any advice on whether this is worth doing for a redgum slab that has been down for 15 years?
As this will be a vanity unit in the bathroom, is 2 part hardening finish the way to go to increase durability, or just estapol?
thanks
John
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24th March 2009 08:37 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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25th March 2009, 07:38 AM #2
I use this method sometimes when I'm turning a bowl.
When you have sanded to the finest paper you intend to use, then using a slightly more than damp cloth rubbed over your timber will cause the grain to raise. Allow to dry and sand that back with the same grade paper again.
The loose fibres in the wood swell and lift, giving you the chance to cut them back and get a finer finish.
Try it on some scrap until you've mastered the idea though.Dragonfly
No-one suspects the dragonfly!
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25th March 2009, 08:32 AM #3
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25th March 2009, 09:22 AM #4
I find damping the timber and sanding not particularly effective. Using a sealer, such as shellac stiffens the grain that has been raised and makes it easier to obtain a smooth surface.
Alex, Took a look at your site. Great work
JerryEvery person takes the limit of their own vision for the limits of the world.
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25th March 2009, 09:29 AM #5
+1 for a very thin coat of shellac (or Ubeaut sanding sealer). I do it as a matter of course with everything I finish these days.
Sand to 400 grit. Apply sealer/shellac with a brush. Wait 24 hours. Sand with 600 and then 800. Smooth as a baby's bum."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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25th March 2009, 10:37 AM #6
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Hi John,
I recently went through this exercise with a 2 slab table top. (see wood pics satinwood).
I ran a straight edge over at the beginning and marked high/low spots with lead pencil to get things close.
Then I wet the slabs between course grits (ROS). Other than visual, I ran my hand over and could feel the rough/low/high spots which I marked with pencil, then back to sanding until pencil lines were gone. Then repeated as required.
Then I used sanding sealer between subsequent sandings.
Between all these replies and doing it, you will end up with a lovely vanity.
cheers
conwood
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25th March 2009, 04:50 PM #7
Conwood,
I know I'm neanderthal but sanding a table top worries me. No sander I know has a long enough working surface to bridge bumps and hollows adequately.. Much quieter, less dust producing and certainly able to bridge large gaps is a try plane. I don't use man made panels and so a fair amount of my work is flattening edge glue boards. Just try planing. It is often quicker too.
JerryEvery person takes the limit of their own vision for the limits of the world.
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25th March 2009, 05:23 PM #8
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Hi Jerry,
My reference to ROS was- after I had planed with an electric planer, then belt sanded with 4 inch sander.
Apologies for any confusion caused to anyone, particularly John.
cheers
conwood
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29th March 2009, 01:41 PM #9
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Red gum slab finish
Many thanks all - very usefull info as always. The last part of my question was re estapol or a two-pot mix, given it will be a bathroom vanity bench top. Any opinions?
thanks
john
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