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  1. #1
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    Feb 2009
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    Default wetting a slab to raise grain

    Evening All
    I'm at a point where I have been sanding my red gum slab quite smooth, but remember somewhere about wetting the timber down with a sponge so that the surface wood expands the grain, let it dry and then sand level. Has anyone any advice on whether this is worth doing for a redgum slab that has been down for 15 years?

    As this will be a vanity unit in the bathroom, is 2 part hardening finish the way to go to increase durability, or just estapol?
    thanks
    John

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  3. #2
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    Default

    I use this method sometimes when I'm turning a bowl.

    When you have sanded to the finest paper you intend to use, then using a slightly more than damp cloth rubbed over your timber will cause the grain to raise. Allow to dry and sand that back with the same grade paper again.

    The loose fibres in the wood swell and lift, giving you the chance to cut them back and get a finer finish.

    Try it on some scrap until you've mastered the idea though.
    Dragonfly
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  4. #3
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    Default

    Yes, the method works for most timbers. Just damp the timber down and resand lightly. Alternatively, use a coat of thin shellac as a sanding sealer. Lightly sand after the shellac has dried.
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  5. #4
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    Default

    I find damping the timber and sanding not particularly effective. Using a sealer, such as shellac stiffens the grain that has been raised and makes it easier to obtain a smooth surface.

    Alex, Took a look at your site. Great work

    Jerry
    Every person takes the limit of their own vision for the limits of the world.

  6. #5
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    +1 for a very thin coat of shellac (or Ubeaut sanding sealer). I do it as a matter of course with everything I finish these days.

    Sand to 400 grit. Apply sealer/shellac with a brush. Wait 24 hours. Sand with 600 and then 800. Smooth as a baby's bum.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  7. #6
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    Dec 2004
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    Hi John,
    I recently went through this exercise with a 2 slab table top. (see wood pics satinwood).

    I ran a straight edge over at the beginning and marked high/low spots with lead pencil to get things close.

    Then I wet the slabs between course grits (ROS). Other than visual, I ran my hand over and could feel the rough/low/high spots which I marked with pencil, then back to sanding until pencil lines were gone. Then repeated as required.

    Then I used sanding sealer between subsequent sandings.

    Between all these replies and doing it, you will end up with a lovely vanity.

    cheers
    conwood

  8. #7
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    Conwood,

    I know I'm neanderthal but sanding a table top worries me. No sander I know has a long enough working surface to bridge bumps and hollows adequately.. Much quieter, less dust producing and certainly able to bridge large gaps is a try plane. I don't use man made panels and so a fair amount of my work is flattening edge glue boards. Just try planing. It is often quicker too.

    Jerry
    Every person takes the limit of their own vision for the limits of the world.

  9. #8
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    Hi Jerry,
    My reference to ROS was- after I had planed with an electric planer, then belt sanded with 4 inch sander.
    Apologies for any confusion caused to anyone, particularly John.
    cheers
    conwood

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Forest Range, SA
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    165

    Default Red gum slab finish

    Many thanks all - very usefull info as always. The last part of my question was re estapol or a two-pot mix, given it will be a bathroom vanity bench top. Any opinions?
    thanks
    john

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