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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Japan
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    144

    Default White Ash bench seat Joinery input wanted for handtool

    I have decide on the design for a bench seat in white ash and now would like to get some advice on joinery for a handtool only job. The general design was here

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/wh...needed-154152/


    Here are some drawings of the joinery proposed.
    Attachment 212711 Attachment 212712

    Attachment 212714 Attachment 212713 Attachment 212715


    (Correction to drawings - the leg frame stretchers are 40x60mm)

    Mortise and tennon -
    What size tennons and shoulders should I be looking at?
    Do I need to use double tennons somewhere?
    Should the seat boards be just screwed to the supprts or should I use the alternative support and set them in slots (grooves)?

    Is strength against racking OK

    I have 8/4 and 6/4 white ash lumber and chose some of the member sizes to reduce wasted wood in dimensioning but would thinner members be more suitabel in some places?

    This is all handtools include dimesioning stock - got a new scrub plane to help.

    Any particular recommendations as the method of cutting the joinery?

    Thanks for the help.

    Rob

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Default

    It seems the main joints used will be mortice and tenon. These are perfect for hand joinery. If you want to add some strength to the frame you might consider drawbored tenons which are a very strong joint. There is plenty on the net for example here.

    Drawbored Mortise and Tenon - Fine Woodworking Video
    My age is still less than my number of posts

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Minnesota, USA
    Posts
    115

    Default

    You don't want to run the tenons for the mortise and tenon on the long stretchers the way you have them. You want a double or triple tenon running horizontal. The way you have it would be fine in a leg running vertical but when going into a horizontal member as you have it there is no glue strength on the end grain in the mortise and you have also lessened the strength of the cross member by nearly cutting it in half with the mortise.
    Mike

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Japan
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    144

    Default

    Attachment 213071

    I was thinking the same thing Mike after some feedback and come up with the above two options. I was going for option B with the wider tennon for more glue area.

    Any comments as to which and any alterations? While I'd prefer not through tennons, are wedged tennis necessay?

    Any other input for strength as well as working white ash with hand tools?

    Rob

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Minnesota, USA
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Option B is better. They do not need to go through just fit well. I don't think in mm but I would make the rails wider say 80 to 90mm and put three tenons on the cross rail. The entire side to side racking strength is in that joint. If the wider rail makes the bench look heavy put an arch in the rail or a cloud lift. You probably only need a 15mm wide tenon in the leg to rail joint. You want to base your tenon width off of your mortise chisel sizes so you can cut them and the mortise the width of the chisel.
    Mike

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