Thread: window glass rebate

Hi Pulpo,

Assemble the frame first, then try one of the rabbiting bits through this link - they have bearing guides and you can just use in any handheld router eg makita, ryobi etc.. use multiple passes e.g a few mm at a time to get to the right depth of cut.

Originally Posted by Pulpo

Needing to rebate timber for the window glass.

Need to rebate I guess about 10mm width and 35mm depth.

For the top and bottom pieces was planning on using the table saw.

But a little too tricky for the verticals as the rebate is not going all the way to the end.

How do I do the rebate?

On the router table, with a few passes?

Or with a router plate?

What router bit should I use?

Many Thanks

Pulpo

I question those dimensions and how you are stating the dimensions ie width and depth.
If the window frame members- top, bottom and stiles) are say 38 to 40mm thick then the rebate should be about 10 to 12mm deep and no more than 28 mm width
( across the thickness of the member)
If you are lying the member flat on the table top you should have no trouble in running the rebate either on a table saw or a using a router in conjunction with a router table.
Mac

Thanks for the advice.

The glass units are double glazed.

Not sure on the final specs but something like 5mm (glass) 12mm (space) 5mm (Glass).

So looking at the window the glass is rebated into the timber by say 10mm (guess).

22mm depth would make the glass level with the face of the frame.

But I want the glass to sit in the middle of the timber thickness (43mm).

So 11mm (approx) either side of the glass.

Does anyone have span table for toughen glass?

Many Thanks

Pulpo

Do as BrettC suggests. The corners will need to be made square by hand using a chisel.

Originally Posted by Pulpo

Thanks for the advice.

The glass units are double glazed.

Not sure on the final specs but something like 5mm (glass) 12mm (space) 5mm (Glass).

So looking at the window the glass is rebated into the timber by say 10mm (guess).

22mm depth would make the glass level with the face of the frame.

But I want the glass to sit in the middle of the timber thickness (43mm).

So 11mm (approx) either side of the glass.

Does anyone have span table for toughen glass?

Many Thanks

Pulpo

I gather you are intending on using ex factory made double glazed units , if so I recommend you contact a glass company that handles double glazed units and check out size of units, thickness available and recommended method of glazing.
Factory double glazed units usually are 25mm thick and as they are made up with a inner metal spacer they usually require a rebate that is at least 20mm deep allowing for clearance around the unit.
You need to also consider the type of glazing material to bed the unit into the frame ie silicone and or neoprene gaskets.
Regards
Mac

Good Morning Pulpo

I have double glazed most of our sash windows, basically using Brett's method. The bearing on the router cutter guides the router along the sash so you cut nice and strait - I also put a spacer the same thickness as the sash to steady the other side of the router so I do not get vertical wobble. Finally you need to square the corners.

My IGU's are all 12mm thick - 2 pieces of 3mm window glass, separated by a 6mm silicon spacer. (Avoid those with aluminium spacers as the aluminium is a great heat/cold conductor and largely negates the benefits of double glazing.) Also, IGU's are twice the weight of single glass, so should not be held in by putty but by glazing strips - small quad or similar strips pre-cut and pre-painted. I think that they look best if rebated 1-3mm from edge of the sash. Finally, the IGU's sit on two small 3 or 5mm thick rubber spacers to absorb vibration and expansion and minimise moisture contact - you IGU supplier will probably give you these. Low-e glass is a good investment.

As the windows will be a lot heavier, if you have sah windows then you will also have to increase the size of the weights or the sashes will not stay open. May as well replace the cords when you do this. And paint everything when there is no glass in the sashes - much easier.

Rave finished

Graeme


Prices I paid early this year for self-installed glass and IGU's per square metre.

$50 - 3mm window glass.
$120 - 12mm IGU as above.
$140 - 12,, IGU with one sheet of low-e glass.