Thread: Wine Rack - Work in progress

looks great so far.

Made a bit of progress today and I am hoping to get some of it glued together tomorrow. I am going for an oil finish so I am going to finish the parts that will be in the tight angles as I won't be able to get my sander in there once glued up. Here are the pics of my days work... enjoy



Diagonal back, front face before first coat of oil. I could have fit another four bottles of wine in by varying the layout but I thought this would look nicer once filled with wine. It should also allow easier access to all the bottles in the rack once full.



Same face with the coat of oil, this was originally going to be the back but I measured once and cut once (and cut wrong) so this became the front. A fortunate mistake as the other side didnt show the character as much as this side.



Upper faces of the top and bottom. Top is near and the bottom is far.

Hi Corbs,

The wine rack is looking good! Is that slab silky oak by any chance?

Hmm, second close look, maybe not.

cheers
Wendy

A great design, nice and different from the usual wine stands. Should look the goods when done!

Originally Posted by rufflyrustic

Hi Corbs,

The wine rack is looking good! Is that slab silky oak by any chance?

Hmm, second close look, maybe not.

cheers
Wendy

Thanks for the favourable comments so far, Wendy the wood is Australian Red Cedar. Have another day to work on it before I have to go back to Sydney. Hoping to get it glued up today.

Corbs

Aussie Red Cedar???? Really!! Wow - I've never seen Red Cedar that pink!!

What's it like to work with? Noisy, quiet, well-behaved ?

cheers
Wendy

I had sit down and a good talk with the wood before I started working with it and told it in no uncertain terms that I would not be taking any crap from it. It has been very well behaved so far for me. The stuff is actually really nice to work with and super light, have gone to heft it a couple of times and nearly thrown it. More fun than working with some other slabs I have used. Going to do some glueing so will hopefully have some more structural pics for you soon.

Corbs

Originally Posted by rufflyrustic

... What's it like to work with? Noisy, quiet, well-behaved ?

cheers
Wendy

Hi hear corbs is an alright kinda fella, fairly well behaved but is known to get rowdy on occaisions

Oh and ruffly, did you hear the rumour that he got done too (it)?:eek)

Nice work dude, can I come to your place to test the weight concept .... drink one bottle weight... hic ... drink another bottle weight... hic ...

Originally Posted by meerkat

Nice work dude, can I come to your place to test the weight concept .... drink one bottle weight... hic ... drink another bottle weight... hic ...

It holds 28 bottles so we got some serious testing to do

Nic ejob. I was going to ask if you were going to leave the natural edges but - it's too late! Very nice piece of timber mate, and a great project.

Kiwi, I was going to leave the natural edges but some of the sapwood had been hit by borers so I cut off most of this. It would have been nice though.

The three pieces have recieved two coats of hard burnishing oil and had the second coat sanded at 1200 grit. I will have to clean up a little after glue up but it will be a lot easier than working on this piece once finished. I am using techniglue to hold the bits together as I really dont want this to give when fully loaded. It will be braced at the back with stainless steel rods but the more help I can give it the more comfortable I will feel.

Corbs



This was a bugger to clamp, the clamps actually try to push the joint appart, I finally got it to work for me though.



Here is a close up of the joint. Hand cut (I am no darksider, just couldnt figure out how to get a power tool to do it) 50mm fingers should leave enough meat to keep the wood strong but provide a great enough surface area for the joint. I thought about reinforcing the joint with some brass threaded rod but feel this would weaken the wood.

I think that the appeal of the zed (IMH engineer's opinion) is the simplicity of the shape. Thin ss rod is weak under compression and would not offer much support - you have a total of about 30kg of load there, so say about half that is acting on the top end. Try to support 7-8kg with your rod, and you'll find that it will distort sideways.

If you installed (epoxied) a single butress gusset to the inside of the angle at the centre, say with 200mm long contact faces, this would offer ample support. You could be flash and do it in a contrasting timber, or have one made from 10mm polished alloy, like a blade. 50mm dia brass tube would work too.

Back to work. Good job whatever you do.

Tassie,

I was thinking the lateral movement would be controlled by the width of the piece and that it was one solid board. The stainless steel tube was more to remove the bounce effect that these frames create and would enable a small load to be placed on the top of the unit. I have attached a drawing of my proposed plan. I also like your idea of a brace in contrasting wood, so if the engineers of the site think the stainless tube option is not viable then I will look into the brace option.

Corbs

I can't give you an engineers opinion, but I can give you an Industrial Designers thoughts on your concept - those SS tubes/rods just kill the whole elegance of the Z.

With the size of the SS section you have illustrated you may as well delete the angled face and just fasten it to the tubes vertically.

Your prototype/form study looks fantastic - minimal material with maximum impact, and I would be trying to maintain that feel.

I am with TK on this one - gusset, brace, inset flush mount angle bracket, or even turning the bottom third of the angle into a triange with a complementary section running from the back of the base...

Aesthetics Ueber Alles!

Cheers,