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Thread: WIP - Maloof inspired rocker
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20th November 2017, 08:28 PM #271GOLD MEMBER
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WIP - Maloof inspired rocker
I managed to squeeze in a bit of time today to fit another back slat. I'm getting quicker at these but I find them mind numbing to make, so I stopped after one. One day this week I'll get in the shop, put some tunes on and just get them done. They're holding up the build.
I've seen other sculpted chairs use bent laminated back slats which I really like. The tenons sit in an oval shaped hole and the slats flex when you seat in the chair. I might try this next time.
I then moved on to finishing the rocker form. It consists of three pieces of 15mm form ply screwed together, with a piece of cork wrapped in packing tape to avoid glue sticking.
I'm using a strip of huon pine in the rockers which was gifted to me from Fletty, but I'm not sure how about thick I want the huon to be. I might use my drum sander to remove a little bit of material at a time, then clamp it up in the form and see how it looks.
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21st November 2017, 08:23 PM #272GOLD MEMBER
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WIP - Maloof inspired rocker
For anyone who was curious about the laminated slats I was talking about yesterday, here is a few pictures. They are obviously thinner than the ones I'm making, and I prefer how they look.
I'd love to build a couple of these chairs next year.
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21st November 2017, 09:12 PM #273
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22nd November 2017, 07:23 AM #274
Yeah, I think i prefer the hand carved ones as well. The laminated ones look a bit too "Ikea"
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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22nd November 2017, 08:36 AM #275
Just a matter of what appeals to your individual taste...
I think I prefer the thicker slats myself, but I'm probably influenced by my own chair-related experiences. Back splats & spindles ae the weak points in chair superstructure. I've lost count of the number of broken spindles I've repaired over the years, & so often it's been just a single spindle, at or near the centre of the chair back. Many of the broken spindles I've seen have had no obvious defects, so it's hard to see why it would have failed from normal use. I can only surmise that sometimes the full weight of a sitter bears on a single point.
Sawn slats like you are using need much care in selection of material grain orientation if they are going to have a long & happy life (as you've already discovered!). Maloof went to great pains to ensure his chair designs were robust. I remember reading way back that he literally dropped one of his early chairs from a second-story window to test it (it survived). The re-curved slats on your chair need to be fairly bulky to accommodate the inevitable grain run-out when cut from solid stock. The secondary shaping gives them a much 'lighter' look, but the curves need to remain fairly modest to avoid too much cross-grain occurring. If you want to go for really lean, flowing lines, I think the safest approach by far would be to cold-form them from multiple thin laminates. If done with supreme care, using strips cut from the same piece, the laminations can almost disappear, but the tighter the curves, the more 'slippage' there'll be between successive strips, so the lamination inevitably becomes more obvious on a more pronounced curve. Or you could turn a handicap into a feature & deliberately add another contrasting strip or two in the mix, as you plan to do with the rocker strips. Depends on what you prefer - the beauty of practicality or the beauty of a solid chunk of wood.....
CheersIW
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22nd November 2017, 08:36 AM #276
Just a matter of what appeals to your individual taste...
I think I prefer the thicker slats myself, but I'm probably influenced by my own chair-related experiences. Back splats & spindles ae the weak points in chair superstructure. I've lost count of the number of broken spindles I've repaired over the years, & so often it's been just a single spindle, at or near the centre of the chair back. Many of the broken spindles I've seen have had no obvious defects, so it's hard to see why it would have failed from normal use. I can only surmise that sometimes the full weight of a sitter bears on a single point.
Sawn slats like you are using need much care in selection of material grain orientation if they are going to have a long & happy life (as you've already discovered!). Maloof went to great pains to ensure his chair designs were robust. I remember reading way back that he literally dropped one of his early chairs from a second-story window to test it (it survived). The re-curved slats on your chair need to be fairly bulky to accommodate the inevitable grain run-out when cut from solid stock. The secondary shaping gives them a much 'lighter' look, but the curves need to remain fairly modest to avoid too much cross-grain occurring. If you want to go for really lean, flowing lines, I think the safest approach by far would be to cold-form them from multiple thin laminates. If done with supreme care, using strips cut from the same piece, the laminations can almost disappear, but the tighter the curves, the more 'slippage' there'll be between successive strips, so the lamination inevitably becomes more obvious on a more pronounced curve. Or you could turn a handicap into a feature & deliberately add another contrasting strip or two in the mix, as you plan to do with the rocker strips. Depends on what you prefer - the beauty of practicality or the beauty of a solid chunk of wood.....
CheersIW
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25th November 2017, 12:54 PM #277GOLD MEMBER
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WIP - Maloof inspired rocker
I certainly do like the slats that I'm making. I just need to ensure they don't look too bulky, and that they are in proportion with the rest of the chair.
Whenever I make something I always look at alternatives and how I'd make it again next time. The bent laminated slats in my opinion look really nice on the armless dining chair, but I can see them looking a bit thin for a rocker. I suppose it comes down to how you sculpt the chair.
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25th July 2018, 10:39 AM #278GOLD MEMBER
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WIP - Maloof inspired rocker
Alright, I’m sort of back working on the rocker and need some advice.
I somehow managed to screw up the negative part of my form (top section in this old photo). I’m now planning on drilling some holes in the bottom section of the form to fit a bunch of F clamps which will give me direct clamping pressure. It seems like a pretty straight forward operation, but was wondering if I should know anything before proceeding?
The glue I’m using is titebond 3, I did a fair bit of research on glues for bent lamination and in the end settled on what Maloof used. I figured if it’s good enough for him, it’s good enough for me.
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25th July 2018, 10:48 AM #279
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26th July 2018, 10:25 PM #280
what can go wrong?
regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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26th July 2018, 11:06 PM #281
My only thought is to make sure the two holes are perpendicular to the curve. Most combination squares come with a “V” attachment which can find that. Mark out on one side then carry the line across to he other side of the jig .
There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!
Tom Waits
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27th July 2018, 08:30 AM #282Member
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congratulations on testing yourself,I am particularly interested in the maloof joint, also is it only the rocker he has plans for or does he have them for other maloof chairs? cheers
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27th July 2018, 09:11 AM #283a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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27th July 2018, 10:27 AM #284GOLD MEMBER
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I used two whiteside router bits for the maloof joint that are sold specifically for this. It really isn’t that hard, just use a scrap piece to dial in the fit.
If you go on Charles Brock website you can see all the plans he sells. From memory he has plans for dining chairs and a low back chair. Although they are based off maloofs work, they are not exact copies.
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27th July 2018, 10:56 AM #285Woodworking mechanic
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Brit. I machined some corner maloof joints with a standard rebate router bit and a table saw. As groeneaj said, you just dial it in with some scrap.
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