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Thread: WIP: Shaker Table with Benches
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12th October 2008, 06:02 PM #16
Norm's Trestle Table...
I'm always up for a bit of norm tv. That table does look very chunky. So chunky you can carve it.
Bending eh?
Wasn't planning on it for this project. Was going to use the inside waste to form the legs on one of the benches.
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13th October 2008, 01:13 PM #17
Here's the latest.
Bench plans now up. Base is a scaled down version of the table. 60% from memory. The top of the base leg needed to be redesigned to fit and extra strength. Legs shift so benches can be tucked under. Hope bench doesn't bow in the middle.
Other suggestions welcome.
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14th October 2008, 11:44 AM #18
Updates.
- Adjusted height of bench and table 460mm and 750mm.
- Made bench leg slightly thicker at the base.
- Added a third bench leg. Not sure about this.
Last edited by steven; 15th October 2008 at 08:00 AM. Reason: removed dead images
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14th October 2008, 01:14 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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All looks good (not too fussed on central leg tho) Love those feet for the table and stools, think they are stronger than they appear. How far apart are the legs on the stools?
Donna
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14th October 2008, 02:48 PM #20
Yeah, I'm not fussed with the central leg. Bench is 30mm thick. Don't want it bending with 4 "larger" people on it.
Bench is 1700mm long, with 1240mm between two outside legs to clear the table legs.
This is the weakest point in the design. Today I made it 10mm higher. You can see the old and new lines. This takes the previous 24mm section to 34mm.
I hope to use 40mm thick wood.
Depends on timber. Going shopping tomorrow. I'd love redgum or jarrah or something real heavy and hard, but see how the budget stretches.
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14th October 2008, 03:01 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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14th October 2008, 03:55 PM #22
Shopping list.
I think I've got everything listed.
I'll buy 40mm for most of it, aiming for a final size of 30-35mm milled.
For the curves, 50mm, aiming for 40-45mm milled.
I do like this being on holidays.
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14th October 2008, 08:01 PM #23SENIOR MEMBER
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I dont think you will get four larger people on your stools, they simply arent long enough. If you were worried about them bending in the middle which I dont think they will do, you could either a) put your lengthwise brace up higher so it sits just under the seat, or b) put a cleat in the middle under the seat that sits on the brace.
Donna
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15th October 2008, 06:50 PM #24
I've been shopping. Borrowed a friend's 4x4 and heading to out to Boutique Timbers. Chatted to Mal about what I wanted to build and my budget.
There was a few options and the most appealing was Coastal Blackbutt.
Nice boards, 50mm thick, 3m long, 400mm wide at one end 300mm at the other. The fact it was locally grown also had some appeal.
Took four home for $300. (Not bad as I went out with a budget of $500.)
Got the old chalk out. There won't be much left over but it all fitted.
(The leach was free.)
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20th October 2008, 05:27 PM #25
Discussion at Club Meeting
I chatted to a few blokes at the club meeting on saturday. A few mentioned concerns about the strength of the curved legs. One thought it would be too heavy. Another thought that the curved leg would be a trip hazard as you try to shuffle onto the bench.
The Plan
1. Top
2. Table legs
3. Benches
Progress
1. Rough cut major sections
2. Realised that blackbutt is heavy
3. Top - 37cm 18cm 37cm boards
4. Realised that blackbutt is heavy
5. Top - 18, 18, 18, 18, 18 (and still heavy but much easier to move)
6. Dressed 2 of 5 boards, and breadboards. Down to 35mm. (making some 7mm panels for a future project). Bad twist in one board hope it's stable now.
Next Step
1. Mortise breadboards
2. Finish dressing top
3. Sliding dowel joinery and breadboards
4. Glue
Fun Fun Fun...
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24th October 2008, 07:03 PM #26
Having another look at the bench leg. The original design is jsut too thin.
Here's a few re-designs. Comments welcome.
My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/
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29th October 2008, 06:52 PM #27
Just a quick post with some progress...
I've never seen joinery like this used on a tabletop but it seemed good to me. 4 x 80cm 1/2" tas oak dowel run continuous through the top. I used a stanley 59 dowel jig and drilled from both sides with a 1/2" bit. To overcome expansion problems, the dowel is not glued, but rather sanded, shellaced, and waxed... so hopefully it'll slide. I wanted substantial size dowel and thought this would prevent cupping better then discontinuous dowel.
(Breadboards to come.)
Underside flattened to a reasonable amount.
1/3 of the top has been flattened with my new no7.My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/
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3rd November 2008, 02:41 PM #28
Slow Progress
Slow Progress....
My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/
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5th November 2008, 05:17 AM #29
Here is a set of plans for you to modify to your specifications and design preferances.
http://www.ibiblio.org/twa/plans/pla...estletable.pdf
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11th November 2008, 07:19 PM #30
Lessons learned:
- Time spent milling is time saved. Some imperfections in jointing became very obvious upon attaching the breadboards.
- Breadboard tennons need to be long. Especially if you want to put dowel in them pullin on the short grain. Long tennons weakens the mortise piece. Solution, multiple tennons.
My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/
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