Thread: Has Me Wondering ??

A few years ago I turned a couple of platters from Qld Kauri; one was such an embarrassment and an affront to the eyes it became a feeding platter for my daughters guinea pigs. This went straight into the dishwasher every time and apart from some bleaching and slight warping it wasn't affected. No finish was ever applied and no cracks or splits ever appeared.

I think just about any species would cope; but I reckon you should aim for quarter-sawn material.

I'm thinking that a board made from strips would be more stable and less prone to warping than one made from a single wide board.

Also, the dishwasher found in cafes and the like is typically a "steriliser" which uses water heated to around >90 degrees C. Domestic dishwashers typically use water at around 60 to 70 degrees.

It seems that every commercial board I've seen in the last 12 months has been Acacia.

Probably because its cheap....

Thank you for your replies.
So do I use Biscuits & which Glue ?
I have just come across some 4x2in. very old hardwood. Very clean.
Thought that it might be the go.
Our Shed Boys use that Glue that Foams & Bubbles up after awhile.
Supposed to be good with washing up. Completely Waterproof.
What say you all on that lot ?

A while back I was making boards for a Melbourne kitchen supplies company. (I eventually had to give them up, they were too demanding)

Thry didnt care too much about the timbers, but they had to be knot and sap free, perfectly jointed, no biscuits needed and glued with Titebond3.

Epoxies were totally forbidden.

Ive many Frontline clamps left over from that experience. The Frontlines are amazing and perfect for the job.

I doubt biscuits will be necessary; providing you've planed the edges flat and true the edge joint will be strong enough to cope with anything a kitchen can throw at it!

The foaming glue you mentioned will be polyurethane; it reacts with moisture to cure and expands forcing itself into the wood grain; any squeeze out foams up. If the pieces aren't properly clamped the foaming action can force the joint apart. It has a real good working time; nearly as good as epoxy and much longer than any PVA I've used including Titebond 3.

Elanjacobs mentioned in one of his posts that he uses poly almost exclusively where he works; he would be able to answer any queries you have regarding how it would cope in a kitchen environment. FWIW it would be my glue of choice for this application.