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  1. #1
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    Default Wood Material Selection

    Hi guys, extremely new to woodworking. I'm intending of building an outdoor cat tree. My question is what are the different types of wood I can use for it to be outdoor rated.

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  3. #2
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    Welcome to the forum.

  4. #3
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    Any Class1 timber good inground and exposed.

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    Nats2510
    Hi guys, extremely new to woodworking.

    rustynail
    Any Class1 timber

    can you explain for Nats, if they are very new, its possible they dont have a clue what your talking about. I need clarifying myself
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

  6. #5
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    Your ultimate guide to decoding timber ratings | Narangba Timbers

    Short list of some common options. Class 1 is hard, heavy and expensive. Given that most cats don't live for 50 years, it might be overkill
    Timber Strength & Durability | Australian Architectural Hardwoods

  7. #6
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    For outdoor above the ground it should be H3 treated timber. For outdoor in the ground it should be H4 treated. If it is treated then pine will be fine. Hardwood will look better if oiled.
    Now that's the proper thing to do. However that treatment is to prevent rot and insects eating it. If you don't care about it lasting too long, you can use untreated timber, especially hardwood.
    For example you can get split hardwood posts for rural fences fairly cheap. Coat it with Linseed oil to look good. Will last for years.

    P.S. You want to avoid cutting H3 or H4 treated timber inside. You want to avoid breathing in that dust. Most woodwork is either for indoor use or for a veggie garden and so untreated timber is used. But I don't expect your cats to eat the 'tree' just scratch it so I assume treated would be OK. I still recommend split hardwood posts from a rural supplier. Couple of posts, a few galvanised bolts. Sorted.
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  8. #7
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    P.P.S. Do cats get splinters? Maybe you should avoid rough sawn timber to avoid splinters?
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  9. #8
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    A brass wire cup wheel on a grinder every few months might be enough to smooth over any splinters that develop from weathering

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonyz View Post
    Nats2510
    Hi guys, extremely new to woodworking.

    rustynail
    Any Class1 timber

    can you explain for Nats, if they are very new, its possible they dont have a clue what your talking about. I need clarifying myself
    Australian timbers are classed according to durability. Class 1 is the most durable and Class 4 the least durable.
    Class 1 includes: Bloodwood(red), Box (coastal and inland grey), Grey Gum, Yellow Gum, Ironbark (grey and red), White Mahogany, White Cypress Pine, Tallowwood,Turpentine, Wandoo.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Your ultimate guide to decoding timber ratings | Narangba Timbers

    Short list of some common options. Class 1 is hard, heavy and expensive. Given that most cats don't live for 50 years, it might be overkill
    Timber Strength & Durability | Australian Architectural Hardwoods
    Some of those timbers shown as Class 1 are Class 2 at best.
    Are we to assume that Class 1 timber should be avoided as our use is less than fifty years and it is expensive at the timber yard? I think not. Armed with the knowledge of what is what one can go about finding a suitable length of fallen timber, probably cost free and set about making Moggy's life just that little bit more enjoyable. Safe in the knowledge that the creation will outlast the cat and several cats to come. (Perish the thought.)

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