Wood movement

**Fuzzie** · 8th October 2013, 02:58 PM

Thanks Ian, I know it all comes down to experience in the end, but as a hobbyist I don't think I actually make enough stuff to get to the critical level where I can remember what worked last time.

I suspect I actually make all my joints a bit too tight and things like grooves a bit too shallow. I say this because my dry fits always seem to be way more difficult than when I watch a demonstration dry fit in say a project video off finewoodworking.com, but on the other hand I really don't want to make them sloppy, I think that would be worse.

Like your comment about grooves 13mm deep, I can't really recall how deep I might have made mine. I'm guessing maybe 10mm or maybe even 6mm in one project, but I really can't remember off the top of my head. Experience and muscle memory just aren't there. My Stanley #50 doesn't have a proper depth stop and my technique isn't the best either so a groove can end up somewhat ragged.

I have plans for my next major project, which from the measured drawings appears to have details regarding depth of grooves and panel allowances, but it is American and material is expected to be Maple and Pine. I plan on using Queensland Maple and Hoop which should be close so I'll try really hard this time to get it right!

**Elill** · 8th October 2013, 05:38 PM

I cant remember the article or exact reason, but the reason I want a moisture metre is to check (not sure of technical term), joint drying time. I recall reading something that you shouldn't sand/plane a join until the relative moisture of the join is the same as that of the corresponding timbers, otherwise you'll end up with a "valley" on the join once its fully dried. Perhaps this is for water based glues?

**IanW** · 8th October 2013, 07:26 PM

Originally Posted by Elill

I cant remember the article or exact reason, but the reason I want a moisture metre is to check (not sure of technical term), joint drying time. I recall reading something that you shouldn't sand/plane a join until the relative moisture of the join is the same as that of the corresponding timbers, otherwise you'll end up with a "valley" on the join once its fully dried. Perhaps this is for water based glues?

Elill, indeed you do need to be mindful of 'wet' joins, and yes, it is the water-based glues that can cause trouble. That includes hide glue as well as PVA types. But unless you really saturate the wood with glue, it only takes a day or two for everything to settle. You would be flat out checking this with a moisture meter, I'd reckon, because the water only penetrates a few mm each side of the join at the most....

Cheers,

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