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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
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    Default Joining hardwood timber for workbench top

    HI there, i'm relatively new to woodwork, but after making a computer desk I have decided to embark on making a workbench for my other passion, watchmaking! I've got some recycled hardwood timber that i'm looking to use for the top. it is quite thick and heavy and i'm interested to know what your thoughts are about an appropriate way to join this together to form the table top.
    The timber is 200mm wide and 50mm thick. The benchtop will be 1100mm long and 600mm deep. I was thinking of possibly using dowel to join the lengths together but am not sure what sizes and lengths i should use for such heavy timber and how many in each joint (is there a quick reference guide available anywhere?). I was also researching dovetail joints, but i only have a handheld router and not sure if this is something to attempt with limited experience?
    Any information or assistance would be appreciated.
    thanks!

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Albury Well Just Outside
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    Default

    Firstly welcome to the forum.

    The main reason for using dowel when gluing the bench top together is for alignment. The joint you create will be long grain to long grain giving a very strong bond.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    moonbi nsw Aus
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    Default

    You are thinking along the right way to get the result. Here I go again with the "BUT" the method to join the planks would be....cut to length but over size about 20-30mm so you can cut the whole top to length and square at the same time. Lay the planks next to each other as they will be in the finish. You can bet that they will need truing up so the ere is no gaps between the planks. Thinking that clamping them up will straighten them is not what would happen. Each plank has to have its edges straight and square. You can do this with a plane or a stiff straight edge and a router. At 1100mm long I would but 12mm dowels in about 70mm from the ends and then through the middle about 200 apart. What you don't want when the top is finished is gaps between the planks that would hide your little watch making pieces. So do a good job now and be particular and the result will be something you will be proud of.
    When you have glued and doweled and clamped the thing together( making sure it if flat and not twisted) Cut it to final length then start on the frame to hold it up
    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    651

    Default bench

    Like chambezio said getting your boards true and straight to start with is a must. Depending on what machinery you have, if you need help flattening your boards let me know and you can come around and run them over my jointer and thicknesser.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
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    4,477

    Default

    As above with a couple of other points, you do not need dowels with that size you could just glue, plus lay the boards out first and have a look at the end grain and you will see growth rings alternate each board so that the rings are also in alternate directios this will help keep the boards flat in years to come. Regarding dovetails remember dovetails have been around a lot longer than routers

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    48
    Posts
    1,484

    Default Joining hardwood timber for workbench top

    Unless you have a dowelling jig or are extremely confident in your drilling and placement, I would avoid dowels and just glue them up. If the dowels are out of alignment of could make the top uneven.

    As was said earlier, the dowels are just for alignment, the long grain glue edge will be plenty strong enough. If they are square and flat then you shouldn't have too many problems. I'd probably glue them in two blocks, then square those up, before joining the two together.

    Another alternative is to use a biscuit jointer to help align things. Or rout a trench down both sides and use a spline. But all these things simply add a risk of error.

    Trav
    Some days we are the flies; some days we are the windscreen

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    HI all thanks for the advice, i actually bought a dowelling kit including a jig and some 10mm by 38mm dowels. I just thought the dowels looked too small for the wood. I'm surprised that the glue would be strong enough to hold the wood together, i would've thought that there would have been a large risk of the joint cracking open in the future. I'll take the advice about glueing the planks together so that the growth rings alternate between the boards though if that will things stronger. And i'll space the dowels apart in the spacing you suggested chambezio, i've bought this dowelling kit so i'm keen to give it a go.
    I had a go at squaring up a board using my electric plane, but it wasn't looking good so have found a guy nearby who has the right equipment to true up the boards (though thanks for the offer shanesmith80 )
    Thanks for the advice and the warm welcome to the forum, it's going to be a fun project!
    Cheers,
    Ben


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