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  1. #31
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    Unfortunately I wasn’t able to get in the shed today so maybe sometime this week there will be some screws. Might go visit the demolition yard tomorrow and see if I can find some decent timber.

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  3. #32
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    Well tapped a nut in a piece of Hopea left over from a deck. All I can say is that it is a very satisfying experience, I can only imagine making the screw is even more so.


  4. #33
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    Looks neat; how many passes did it take?
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  5. #34
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    Quite a few passes, mainly because of the chip build up, I had to back out half way occasionally clean the chips then go again. I defiantly need to make the recess in front of the cutter larger. Didn’t take long though maybe 15min.

  6. #35
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    Yep, probably took me that long or a bit longer for #1. It takes even less time once you get the hang of it, but if it takes 20 minutes, or even 30, to tap a nut in your bench & you get a lifetime's use out of it, that's what I call a good return for effort.

    I have a 2 inch 4tpi metal tap that a friend made for me years ago. It's a beast of a thing that is difficult to start & takes two people & a 600mm length of 16mm bar to turn it through Spotted Gum! Some time ago I made one of these 'primitive' taps to the same size & pitch and was very pleased with myself when nuts tapped with it accepted screws made from the threading jig I'd made using the metal tap. Some may say "Of course it should" but given the small margin for error & wood being a bit more difficult to make precise, I was mildly surprised I got such a good match! So it's my go-to tap for that size now, I can tap a hole whenever I want without busting a gut & having to wait for someone to come & help me turn the monster....

    And something I forgot to mention previously: you may have read or seen on videos where people use linseed oil to ease the tap through the wood. This works quite well in many woods, with metal taps that have good chip-ejection channels, but not so well for this type of tap, the swarf tends to stick & build up ahead of the cutter even more. However, it does soften the fibres & eases the passage of the cutter a little, so in some cases it may be worth the extra bother of having to back out & clear the swarf more often. I've used oil a few times, but am still ambivalent about it. I may encounter situations in the future that will change my mind, but at this point I think the better approach to the tough woods is to just take lighter cuts for each pass.

    'Tis a very satisfying thing to see such nice, clean threads emerge, isn't it?.....

    Cheers,
    IW

  7. #36
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    Thanks for the insights again Ian.

    Yes I agree that the time it takes is irrelevant as they should serve a life time.

    I would say it is extremely satisfying watching the thread form. I can understand why you have devoted so much time persevering with the making them.

  8. #37
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    Default Making wooden vise screws

    Ok this afternoon’s efforts were not exactly what I was hoping for. I tried to thread some pine, this is what I got...



    I’m not sure what the problem is. Initially I tried to thread the blank then it dawned on me you have to remove any forwarded thread of the router bit (as per Ian’s advice in the AWR article).

    I did this and I started to get it to thread in but would jam after only 1 or so turns. I tried repositioning the cutter and raising and lowing the cutter but nothing seemed to work? I also reduced the diameter of the blank for a looser fit bit this didn’t help either.




    The pine created sappy saw dust so nut sure if this is causing it to jam as it doesn’t escape very easily.

    Otherwise not sure what to do other than try some better timber. Any ideas??

  9. #38
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    Hmmm, very hard to do much for you remotely, but obviously something is a little out of whack.

    It takes a little bit of practice to get a clean start, that first half-turn of thread is nearly always a bit wonky, so if the screw starts to tighten after a turn or two, that's the first thing I check. I back out & pare the crooked bit off. When you replace the screw for a re-start, screw it over the stationary cutter 'til it hits the end of the existing thread, then back off a fraction of a mm before switching on & starting to turn again.

    From your picture, the bit of thread you have managed to cut looks clean & even, which is encouraging. If you are happy the cutter is positioned correctly with respect to the first thread land in the nut, but the screw is getting too tight after a coupe of turns, the most likely cause is the cutter isn't quite high enough. The vee in the screw thread needs to be just a teeny bit deeper & wider for more clearance, so try raising the cutter a whisker. It can be a bit fiddly to set up the first time, as I've warned, but once you get it right, the screw should thread in easily from start to finish.

    Never tried threading pine, it should thread well enough, though the resin could make it a bit sticky to turn, but I think that would feel a bit different than the binding you get from mis-match. I suspect your problem is with the cutter position. I sometimes need to fiddle a bit to set up if I haven't done any threading for a while. When you do get a perfect thread, keep a bit that yu can use for setting up & testing next time.

    Stick at it, you're well on your way & I reckon you'll soon have it sorted and the screws will start rolling off the assembly line.....

    Cheers,
    IW

  10. #39
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    Default Screw Worm

    Quote Originally Posted by jonsey850 View Post
    ... I tried to thread some pine, this is what I got...

    Screw Worm.jpg

    I’m not sure what the problem is. .... Any ideas??

    Screw worm ????

  11. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    It takes a little bit of practice to get a clean start, that first half-turn of thread is nearly always a bit wonky, so if the screw starts to tighten after a turn or two, that's the first thing I check. I back out & pare the crooked bit off.
    This might be the issue I will have another go and keep an eye on this.

    I might also change the set up so the router is on top of the nut and I can clamp to the bench, this should make it more rigid.

  12. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Screw worm ????
    Yeah its pretty nasty, looks like the dog got ahold of it.

  13. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonsey850 View Post
    .......I might also change the set up so the router is on top of the nut and I can clamp to the bench, this should make it more rigid.....
    Yes, you definitely want the router & jig sitting solidly. I clamp the router on my bench sitting upright 'cos it's easy to do with my set-up & puts the jig at a comfortable height & gravity helps clear the sawdust/swarf so it doesn't get carried into the guide threads. The illustrations of the Beale threader, which is essentially the same as our home-made jigs, always show it with the router sitting on top. If you use effective dust collection (I should, but don't), it wouldn't matter which way up you use it...

    Cheers,
    IW

  14. #43
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    Had another go at threading today. This time I would call it a success.

    I mounted the router on the top, I found this easier as you can view the cutter through the hole which help with set up. I was also able tidy up the first part of wonky thread by just looking down the hole and gently guiding the thread along the cutter.




    Initially it was a little tight then after a few little movements of the router away it went threading smoothly.




    I don’t think pine threads very well, there is chipping around the crest of the threads. The harder area where a knot was looks nice though, so I would be confident some better timber I could get a decent screw.

    Probably leave this for now and start drawing some plans for a bench. Thank you to those who gave advise, particularly Ian.

    Cheers

  15. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonsey850 View Post
    ... I don’t think pine threads very well, there is chipping around the crest of the threads. The harder area where a knot was looks nice though, so I would be confident some better timber I could get a decent screw....

    I think that you are right. There is also some chatter on the sides of the threads. But technique should work well with a finer grained timber.

    But look at your progress....

    Screw Worm 2.jpg

    Screw 1.jpg

    I like success stories.

  16. #45
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    Yep, like I said, perseverance wins the day.

    Chipping can be a sign of several different things, it could be a dull cutter, a slight mismatch of cutter & guide thread, or just bad choice of wood. I suspect Pine falls in the last category, but as I said above, I've never tried threading it so can't speak from experience. Anyway, as Graeme pointed out, your progress has been very rapid, and I'll definitely give you your 'Koala stamp' for today's effort.

    And yep, I think you can start planning the bench to fit around the new screws that are about to appear.....

    Cheers,
    IW

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