Thread: Is there any artificial way to grow straight tree?

Listen to your mate - that is how 'they' do it in nurseries, and its why 'forest' trees are preferred to 'parkland' trees for lumber, and vice versa for grown knees for ship building. Only thing it won't do is stop twisty grain.

bsrlee, thanks for the confirmation.

I don't know will it works for guava, but i will give it a try. Thanks again.

Paulownia timber plantations are developed by pruning every branch that grows on the trunk until it has reached the desired height. In the case of paulownia large leaves grow off the trunk as well and these are left to allow the tree to develop.
John

In the case of paulownia, it is naturaly "straight" tree right ? Does the same treatment also works for guava ? I notice my 7 month guava already developed many branch near the base (approx 20cm from ground). The main trunk is only about a meter high from the ground.

Hence my original question about shades, because I'm not confident enough to branch pruning such young tree.

Wolfram
I'm no botanist so don't take these comments as scientific.
Paulownia grown in a plantation situation do grow straight but only after extensive and regular pruning throughout the first year to develop a trunk. Pruning is carried out in subsequent years to retain this branch free trunk. It's a time consuming task.
The paulownia around my farm that were not in a plantation and allowed to grow 'naturally' are not straight. Branches start about 60 cementres from the base and grow upwards and outwards, like a candle holder, with branches forming on branches. That is like any other tree. The benefit I see with Paulownia is that the leaves on trees in the first year are very large and provide the greenery necessary for the development of the tree. I don't know whether this would happen as well with other species. As I said I am not a botanist.

Hope this helps
John

How about if you grew it inside a pipe?

To my knowledge which is thin and limited. When they grow a forest of timber for harvest, pruning is part of the planning. They cut off limbs that grow out at angles in the attempt to gain a tree that goes straight up from a single trunk.

Studley

Originally Posted by whitewood

Wolfram
I'm no botanist so don't take these comments as scientific.
Paulownia grown in a plantation situation do grow straight but only after extensive and regular pruning throughout the first year to develop a trunk. Pruning is carried out in subsequent years to retain this branch free trunk. It's a time consuming task.
The paulownia around my farm that were not in a plantation and allowed to grow 'naturally' are not straight. Branches start about 60 cementres from the base and grow upwards and outwards, like a candle holder, with branches forming on branches. That is like any other tree. The benefit I see with Paulownia is that the leaves on trees in the first year are very large and provide the greenery necessary for the development of the tree. I don't know whether this would happen as well with other species. As I said I am not a botanist.

Hope this helps
John

Hi John, thanks for sharing. As I never been involved in plantation business, I will be doing trial and error here.

From 3 of my guava saplings, all have low branches, about 20 cm above ground. Early on, I planned to prune them after they're larger, but now....

My next experiment would be early pruning as soon as those lateral branches pop out, and putting tarp shade around the saplings.

Originally Posted by Wongdai

How about if you grew it inside a pipe?

It crossed my mind, but then you have to think about height adjustment to keep sun exposure from above as the plant grow. Even with large pipe, it would be difficult later when you need to adjust and harvest. Imagine a "trapped" trunk inside a pipe.....

Originally Posted by Studley 2436

To my knowledge which is thin and limited. When they grow a forest of timber for harvest, pruning is part of the planning. They cut off limbs that grow out at angles in the attempt to gain a tree that goes straight up from a single trunk.

Studley

That's the idea Studley, but many timber species is sturdy tree, not so with guava (I think). It only has small diameter main trunk at 7 month, and the lateral branch are numerous. Can it withstand very aggresive pruning ? I'll find out in my next batch.

The more leaves you leave the faster it will grow but, don't let any side branches get to large and remove as soon as practicable. Also make sure they don't develope 2 leaders.
When you cut the branches off cut them off don't leave bits sticking out of the trunk or you will get rapid bud production. But more importantly don't take off any branch collar from the trunk. If they do keep shooting wrap them up to keep the light off. I think it should work for you but you will not get a mill log.

Originally Posted by Wongdai

How about if you grew it inside a pipe?

6" sewer pipe, cut it length ways First length 30cm longer than the tree is high other sections 50cm long, one hose clamp at the bottom and a cable tie at the top , add the next sections overlapping the lower sections when the tree is 20-cm above the pipe
Bricks at the bottom to stop it falling in the early stages pipe can also be drilled and rope to pegs to give stability
Don't ask

Originally Posted by glenn k

The more leaves you leave the faster it will grow but, don't let any side branches get to large and remove as soon as practicable. Also make sure they don't develope 2 leaders.
When you cut the branches off cut them off don't leave bits sticking out of the trunk or you will get rapid bud production. But more importantly don't take off any branch collar from the trunk. If they do keep shooting wrap them up to keep the light off. I think it should work for you but you will not get a mill log.

Thanks for the input !

By wrapping do you suggest wrapping only the branch collar using tape or wrapping tarp around the saplings ?

I am not hoping for mill log, after all guava is not commercially timber species. I am planning for wood bow and hand plane from the harvest, so 2 M of relatively straight trunk should be enough.

Originally Posted by Ashore

6" sewer pipe, cut it length ways First length 30cm longer than the tree is high other sections 50cm long, one hose clamp at the bottom and a cable tie at the top , add the next sections overlapping the lower sections when the tree is 20-cm above the pipe
Bricks at the bottom to stop it falling in the early stages pipe can also be drilled and rope to pegs to give stability
Don't ask

Hey, smart topping up system.
Why I didn't think about it earlier ?
But sewer pipe will cost a lot more than a peg and a tarp although it will relatively more wind resistance.

Nevertheless, now I know what to do next time I saw big sewer pipe chunk at the junkyard.

I saw them wrap the trunks with hesian soaked in mud in former East Germany but it's only the bits that are shooting that need to be kept in the dark so what ever is easier.

Originally Posted by wolfram

Thanks for the input !

By wrapping do you suggest wrapping only the branch collar using tape or wrapping tarp around the saplings ?

I am not hoping for mill log, after all guava is not commercially timber species. I am planning for wood bow and hand plane from the harvest, so 2 M of relatively straight trunk should be enough.



Hey, smart topping up system.
Why I didn't think about it earlier ?
But sewer pipe will cost a lot more than a peg and a tarp although it will relatively more wind resistance.

Nevertheless, now I know what to do next time I saw big sewer pipe chunk at the junkyard.

But the pvc pipe can be used again on the next tree

Finally I'm removing all low lateral branch on 2 of my guava saplings. I left one for control specimen. Will update you guys if anyone is interested.