Thread: someone have a dai - kanna making tutorial

Hi Javier,

Try this:
Making a Dai (Japanese Wooden Plane Body) - April 01, 08 of 2006

Lots of pics but no text, so hopefully you can figure out what's going on. When you get to fitting the blade, always remove wood from the bed of the mortice, not the upper part of the grooves.

Also, if you poke around the Daiku Dojo site, you'll find more pics of other dai making seminars.

I'm sure you'll still have questions, so don't hesitate to ask.

Steve

thanks a lot sheets it a goog site for bigin
I ave e question about the sole of the dai , because Ithink is plane , but isnt it can you explain me de types of plane sole thanks a lot

javier from the other side of the world

Originally Posted by correntinos

thanks a lot sheets it a goog site for bigin
I ave e question about the sole of the dai , because Ithink is plane , but isnt it can you explain me de types of plane sole thanks a lot

javier from the other side of the world

Javier, the soles of Japanese smoothing planes aren't usually flat. Instead, they have a slight indentation with two co-planar humps, one in front of the mouth and one at the toe. Behind the mouth the sole is also relieved with no humps.

The soles of block planes and jointers are typically flat.

Pam

I've put together some graphics which I hope will fill in some blanks. It is not as comprehensive as what's out there in the books, but if you don't have the books, now you have something. Please feel free to add/correct/clarify, etc.

The measurements I've tabled, are from my own cross section of kanna. As always, there are exceptions. I don't have a jointer, which I believe is about 40-45 cm overall.

The placement of the chip breaker pin is a difficult thing to convey in words or pics. If I may quote Odate, " measure up from the sole 1 and 1/16" (27 mm) along the blade angle line. From this point, draw a line 90 deg. to the blade angle line and the chip breaker hole is about 1/4" (6 mm) along this line".
Since this is only an approx. position, it is best to refer to your own chip breaker thickness to ensure the hole is placed accurately. Anyway, I've tried to draw these instructions out.

thamk a lot for your useful information

javier from the other side of the yworld

Really nice work, Steve. Simple and concise.

That is a really nice set of drawings- thank. -Howard

hi everyboy , steve what id the thickness and lenght
of a kanna of 60 mm and his cheapbroker

thank a lot for yours helps

javier from argentina

Here's one of mine. The basic geometry is the same, but the actual widths, thickness, etc. can vary because they are hand-made (so, 1-2 mm either side of the listed dimensions are not uncommon). Sometimes, the kanna will taper slightly (1-2 mm) in width as well (wider at the top).

Kanna size is always listed as the full width, but the cutting edge is usually about 10 mm less.

In case its not obvious, the cutting edge is narrower than the blade width because the grooves which hold the blade in the dai cover up part of the blade width. Shavings have no where to go if any of the cutting edge extends further than the width of the mouth. Therefore, the chip breaker, mouth and cutting edge are all based on the amount of edge not covered by the grooves in the dai.

As you sharpen your kanna, over time it gets shorter and the nipped corners (mimi) need to be reground to keep the cutting edge the correct width.

thaksssssssssssss a lot sheet is very important for me your help

thanks a lot again
javier from the other side of the world