Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 30 of 47
-
14th August 2010, 01:05 PM #16
Fairy nuff. Just a musing as I wonder around and think in the shed.
-
14th August 2010 01:05 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
14th August 2010, 04:25 PM #17
A-musing yourself? Shouldn't you be fixing a cabinet?
I am also wondering about temperature as it is fairly cold. However, against that theory is the fact it is a Japanese saw and it gets much colder there than here. In fact, now I think of it, I had the heater on.
-
14th August 2010, 06:52 PM #18
-
16th August 2010, 05:12 AM #19Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Shelter Island
- Posts
- 227
Have cut African Blackwood and Purpleheart with Japanese saws of varying quality. Have never seen anything like that happen. It's slow and laborious, but have never broken any teeth. Dulled some, but none broken.
Agree fully that you should demand a refund.
-
16th August 2010, 12:13 PM #20
Looks like a fault to me Groggy.
I use the very cheap Japanese style saws from 'B' for this work and they've been faultless. When I originally purchased it a few years back I also selected a replacement blade for *when* I ruin the original... it's still sitting on it's hook unused after about 100m of cross-cut hardwood flooring with prejudice.
If a cheap saw can perform this well I'd suggest the Nakaya Kugihiki is either faulty or just not suitable for Australian Timbers. Can you test it on anything else with the remaining working teeth?"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
- Douglas Adams
-
16th August 2010, 10:46 PM #21
Glad you posted this groggy.
I've been tempted to by that same saw cause I wanted an better than average flush cut.
My dozuki is very hand at times, and has lost a few tooth for sure.My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/
-
16th August 2010, 11:15 PM #22
Boz, get the LV for starters mate. I managed to buckle mine through inexperience ages ago but it has kept on cutting. After I got the new one I binned the LV but pulled it out again to spread some glue with it (as you do).
After the glue was set I binned it again until the Japanese one died, then I resurrected it again. I scraped off the glue and tapped it a little bit flatter than a crinkle cut chip, then used it again. Stone me if it didn't cut 80% as good as new.
Anyway, Lazarus the LV saw is still in the shed on the bench and the Japanese saw is hanging in shame where the rest of the tools can see it.
-
16th August 2010, 11:43 PM #23
I usually keep away from recommending any tools, but I have three LV's (just in case I run out) and one very exxcy jap one.
For my use, even through jarrah, I would vouch for the LV and rarely use the Jap tool.
-
17th August 2010, 07:10 PM #24
I ordered a replacement for the LV saw in the evening of Friday 12 Aug 10 and received a confirmation email shortly after that. I have been assuming the order was moving and everything ok.
Midday today, Tuesday, I received a phone call saying one of the items was out of stock and would be back ordered. Luckily I still have the Lazarus saw and will most likely have to use it again this weekend. The other items will ship today so I *may* get them before the weekend when I need them.
A quick check shows the website still does not say "out of stock".
I could have ordered from Lee Valley direct and had it in my hands today or tomorrow. Instead, having placed the order on Friday, I expect it will take a minimum of 4 days to the supplier, then another 1-2 days to get to me. Instead of 4 days it is now a 10 day order. If I cancel and try LV now it still can't get here before the weekend.
I would like:
- to see if an item is out of stock, and
- the option to have an out of stock demand automatically passed to LV for shipping direct to me, that way the item would get here in the minimum time and the details I provide to the retailer are passed on, saving re-ordering.
I fear that one day soon a company with an efficient online ordering system and an effective supply chain will send a lot of Aussie businesses to the wall.
EDIT: Some companies can do it. I ordered a plane from Terry Gordon on the 17th and it was here on the morning of the 19th. I also ordered two items from Lee Valley Canada on the 19th they arrived on the 23rd, the same day the other items arrived.
To date, 28th Aug, I still have not received the replacement flush-cut saw from the original supplier.
-
17th August 2010, 10:19 PM #25
-
18th August 2010, 01:07 AM #26
If you plan to get a LV flush cut saw, get the wooden handled one, rather than the cheaper black plasic version. The former is the one that received rave reviewed in Pop Woodworking mag.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
18th August 2010, 02:41 AM #27Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- Arkansas USA
- Age
- 85
- Posts
- 169
I'm having a different kind of problem with my flush cut saw.
I can't find it.
-
18th August 2010, 09:25 AM #28
-
18th August 2010, 08:27 PM #29Eschew obfuscation
- Join Date
- Mar 2010
- Location
- Berowra, Sydney
- Posts
- 171
That's ridiculous! I have one of the 'B' ones that I bought with an extra larger blade. Been great, and it never even occurred to me that the thing may be fragile.
Losing teeth to a nail I could understand, but losing a whole row of teeth - right at the root of the teeth, not just the tips snapping off - smacks to me of faulty manufacturing. I'm thinking they forgot part of the heat treatment cycle, and would definitely be looking for a refund. Not a replacement, a refund.
Maybe even email the pic to the manufacturer; if they're at all serious about quality control they'd want it back to figure out what went wrong.
-
23rd August 2010, 05:02 PM #30
Hi All,
I had the same problem with my first japanese saw, a fine one I was using to cut dovetails - into a bit of aussie hardwood and the same outcome - many broken teeth no matter how careful I was.
After looking closely at the metal and wood "swarf" , I concluded the chips the saw was cutting were big and strong enough to jam between teeth in the kerf, and because of the shape of the teeth, break them. I think with softwood, the chips would be recut into smaller chips and not jam in the cut.
The saw I was using had very pointed, elongated teeth so each tooth would cut more, and the teeth would be more fragile at the base, and be more prone to breaking there..
I looked at the teeth on lots of japanese saws, and bought another one with shorter, more triangular shaped teeth (ie wider at the base and not as long so leverage is less when the tooth is under stress) , and it hasn't been a problem since.
My 2.2c worth.
ChrisIf you can't laugh at yourself, you could be missing out on the joke of the century - E.Everidge
the Banksiaman
Similar Threads
-
75mm Cut Flush trim Bit
By watson in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 21Last Post: 3rd February 2010, 09:39 PM -
Flush trim bits
By FXST01 in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 6Last Post: 14th May 2007, 08:46 PM -
Flush Trimming Bit
By mat in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 17Last Post: 2nd June 2003, 10:38 PM