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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    maryland USA
    Posts
    19

    Default Gennou handle, first attempt

    I bought this cheap funate recently and the handle was the fun part. I bought this hammer specifically to make a handle. I tried to mimic the handle the So has detailed on his site. I think it came out OK but the next one will be even closer to So's. The wood it eastern hornbeam, a very very dense and hard wood with very tight grain. It takes a fine polish and is generally just a fine wood. I initially was not intending to use a wedge and did the deal where by you compress the fibers of the tenon with a hammer and then after insertion soak the tenon with oil and help it swell into shape within the socket. Well, after a week of constant soaking with LandArk oil thinned a bit with some turpentine to help absorbing there was no swelling of the tenon at all.( LandArk oil by the way is a product for use in the timber frame home industry here in the US and is a mixture of pure tung oil, aged linseed oil, bees wax, pure citrus oil and pine rosin. It is a super fine finish and I have used it extensively on many projects both indoor and outdoor, furniture, tool handles, cutting boards and food containers, yes, it is food safe. ) So, I ended up using a small wedge after all. Im not happy about that but what am I gonna do? Have the head fly off? No. Hopefully the next go round I can fit the tenon better and will not need a wedge.IMG_4659.jpgIMG_4661.jpgIMG_4663.jpgIMG_4664.jpgIMG_4666.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    boston
    Posts
    574

    Default

    I would be proud to display this fine work! Well done mate.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Lawrencetown, NS, Canada
    Posts
    587

    Default

    Indeed, looks very nice. Have you hit anything with it to check out the balance (and security)?

    I've been wanting to try using Hornbeam (and it grows here on the East coast), but I've never tried yet. Perhaps I'll give it a go. Any particular problems with working it by hand?

    Anyway, well done.

    Steve

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    maryland USA
    Posts
    19

    Default

    bosox, thanks for the compliment. I appreciate it,
    sheets, the balance point is 3 3/16" back from the center of the head. Is this good? Bad? Where should it be? I did not think of this little nuance. Thanks for asking, maybe I'll learn more here. As far as security, that is good. I really wanted to try one of these types of gennou as it is supposedly a boatbuilders hammer and that is what I am, a shipwright, and it looks great for peening copper rivets so that's what I did with it. I grabbed a couple little scraps and drilled for some small medium and larger rivets and roves and burrs and went to "work", worked as I suspected it would, fine. I surely like it. As stated, this is a little cheapy from ebay but it works but I would like to get in touch with So and see if he has anything of better quality for a reasonable price in a heavier weight with a better formed socket.
    Not sure if our two species of hornbeam are the same but mine is pretty easy to work, not splintery. Nice straight grain. Just have sharp tools and a good breakfast, it is very tough and hard. I shaped this one after riving off a stick from a piece of firewood with only a small, very small, spokeshave. A little 6" rosewood spokeshave. A 1/2" chisel and a card scraper.

    Bill

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Lawrencetown, NS, Canada
    Posts
    587

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by planebill View Post
    bosox, thanks for the compliment. I appreciate it,
    sheets, the balance point is 3 3/16" back from the center of the head. Is this good? Bad? Where should it be? I did not think of this little nuance. Thanks for asking, maybe I'll learn more here. As far as security, that is good. I really wanted to try one of these types of gennou as it is supposedly a boatbuilders hammer and that is what I am, a shipwright, and it looks great for peening copper rivets so that's what I did with it. I grabbed a couple little scraps and drilled for some small medium and larger rivets and roves and burrs and went to "work", worked as I suspected it would, fine. I surely like it. As stated, this is a little cheapy from ebay but it works but I would like to get in touch with So and see if he has anything of better quality for a reasonable price in a heavier weight with a better formed socket.
    Not sure if our two species of hornbeam are the same but mine is pretty easy to work, not splintery. Nice straight grain. Just have sharp tools and a good breakfast, it is very tough and hard. I shaped this one after riving off a stick from a piece of firewood with only a small, very small, spokeshave. A little 6" rosewood spokeshave. A 1/2" chisel and a card scraper.

    Bill
    Hi Bill,
    I apologize for asking the question of "balance" in a manner which invokes anything other than, "how does it feel" (which you answered most satisfactorily). I can't claim to have any idea of where a balance point should be (or not), although I'm sure there is a "sweet spot" in head weight vs shaft length, but working in wood, which has some flexibility, surely renders such considerations to a minor (if any) level. After all, hammers have been around for a long time, so somebody else (Bushmiller?) has worked out how long the handle "should be" (as much a practical choice as a functional one). I know in Odate's book on Japanese tools, the handle length should be as long as your forearm (when you grip the head in tour palm). Anyway, before I get too long winded, suffice it to say I think you've tested your creation and declared it "good to go". Thanks for the advice on Hornbeam (I think the species are pretty well the same - or close enough).

    And between you and me, I don't think you'll find any appreciable difference in use between any hammer head based on price (for similar weight/style). Nothing wrong with wanting a finer finish, etc., but a lump of weight on the end of a stick need not be anymore than that. In fact, its likely the handle (and the operator) the are where quality needs to be specified. I know I can mash my thumb as easily with a $1 as a $100 hammer.

    Steve

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    maryland USA
    Posts
    19

    Default

    You said it Steve. I do admit to getting wrapped up in the quality of some tools that I probably shouldn't. Youre right, a hammer is a damn hunk of steel at the end of a stick. But still... ;-)
    It appears I sized my handle correctly as it pretty much fits the description above, fits right in the crook of my arm.
    About the hornbeam, I bet they are the same species. I didn't notice your location and I collected this particular piece in Sault St. Marie Michigan. That's right on the border with Canada.
    I think my hammer is good to go. Did some more "testing" today and its still attached.

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